greasing the front bearings on a 78 power wagon
You'll need to pull the wheels and calipers off then start to disassemble the automatic locking hubs. There are going to be snap rings in there so you will need a small flat blade screw driver (proabably two) to get those out and a set of snap ring pliers. There is then a spindle nut, washer and another spindle nut. You will need a special socket to get these out - http://www.partsmike.com/store/store...on=show_detail - you can get this tool at any decent auto parts store. After those spindle nuts and washer are out, the hub assembly and rotor will come right off as one. The outer bearing will probably just fall right out, the inner bearing is sealed into the hub and you will have to remove the seal to get it out. New seals should only be ~$10-$15 maybe.
Installation is just the oposite of this. When you install the first spindle nut, turn the rotor/hub to help seat the bearing then torque the spindle nut to 25-35 lb./ft. (I usually set them to 30lb./ft. of torque) install the washer and then torque the outer one to the same spec as the inner.
Installation is just the oposite of this. When you install the first spindle nut, turn the rotor/hub to help seat the bearing then torque the spindle nut to 25-35 lb./ft. (I usually set them to 30lb./ft. of torque) install the washer and then torque the outer one to the same spec as the inner.
If you have not, before doing this job inspect the ball joints and u-joints as this would be the right time to do them. The ball joints also need to be set up a specific way (D44 and GM 10B axles are the only ones like this) otherwise, they will not last that long.
yes there are two fittings .... one on each side.. when you hav the wheesl off there is a hole in the rotors ... just spin the rotors and look in the hole with a light... those grease zerts will lube the front bearings....
Wow, I didn't know there was two of them. Is there a way to grease the rear ones?
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