Timing chain mystery
03-12-2016, 08:22 PM
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Timing chain mystery
Just replaced my timing chain + cam/crank sprockets, put everything back together and it started up just like it always has during a cold start, but was running beautifully. Turned it off to start cleaning up and take it for a drive, went to go start it again and it just cranked and cranked continuously with no indication it was going to start.
I finally gave up and figured I flooded it and I tried again the next day, same thing, no start and a ton of cranking.
Double checked to make sure everything was still lined up and it is, #1 piston at tdc at the end of compression stroke, I even took off the valve covers to watch the valves just to make extra sure and it all still looked correct. Adjusted the diatributor rotor a tad to make sure it was pointing at #1 dead on too.
I tried putting some gas straight in the carb and I did get it to snort and putter a little but, but only long enough to burn the gas I dumped straight in. It sounded like a go kart.
My only guess is something got screwed up with a fuel line somehow (I can't pull off the fuel inlet line to the carb, don't think it was apart since the truck was made in 1984 and I accidently twisted the metal line a little even with a backup wrench)
Any tips or ideas would greatly appreciated, I'm starting to think it's beyond my capability now.
1984 dodge ram d250, chrysler 318 5.2L
I finally gave up and figured I flooded it and I tried again the next day, same thing, no start and a ton of cranking.
Double checked to make sure everything was still lined up and it is, #1 piston at tdc at the end of compression stroke, I even took off the valve covers to watch the valves just to make extra sure and it all still looked correct. Adjusted the diatributor rotor a tad to make sure it was pointing at #1 dead on too.
I tried putting some gas straight in the carb and I did get it to snort and putter a little but, but only long enough to burn the gas I dumped straight in. It sounded like a go kart.
My only guess is something got screwed up with a fuel line somehow (I can't pull off the fuel inlet line to the carb, don't think it was apart since the truck was made in 1984 and I accidently twisted the metal line a little even with a backup wrench)
Any tips or ideas would greatly appreciated, I'm starting to think it's beyond my capability now.
1984 dodge ram d250, chrysler 318 5.2L
03-12-2016, 09:09 PM
#2
How long has it been sitting ?? I would suspect that you picked up trash out of the fuel tank.. Run the fuel line into a container and see what comes out... or check the fuel pressure... Also check for spark
03-12-2016, 10:51 PM
#3
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Spark is good, stuck a screwdriver in a wire and sat it next to the exhaust mani, it was zapping. I was driving it fine before I did this job, but it was clearly out of time
03-13-2016, 10:37 AM
#5
you have said nothing of a timing light. Have you timed the engine? Pointing the rotor ant no1 is no way to do so. You can check timing with a light "on the starter."
Compression, fuel, and spark
COMPRESSION.......You need enough compression to run. "Just how little" is up to speculation, but I would certainly run a compression test and or leakdown
FUEL. You need the right amount of FRESH fuel. Has the vehicle been parked for long? Is the carb accel pump working? Have you checked the plugs? Are they wet? Dry?
SPARK. Enough spark energy AND AT THE RIGHT TIME
Check spark FIRST by eliiminating everything "south" of the coil. That is, "rig" a spark gap right at the coil tower, and do not use the coil wire, to start with. "Cranking" you should have a hot snappy spark about 3/8" or longer.
Next, "resistance check" at least the coil wire. Old rule of thumb is you want to see less than 1000 ohms per foot of wire
Inspect the distributor, for rust, debri, spark damage around reluctor / pickup coil. Inspect for shaft wear. "Work" the distributor connector in/ out a few times to scrub the terminals and to "feel" for tightness.
Inspect the cap and rotor for damage, moisture, dirt, etc.
Inspect the plugs. Are they dry/ wet/ fouled/?
AND CHECK the timing. For a stock cam you want at least 10* BTC and performance cams more than that. 15--20 fro a hot street cam
Compression, fuel, and spark
COMPRESSION.......You need enough compression to run. "Just how little" is up to speculation, but I would certainly run a compression test and or leakdown
FUEL. You need the right amount of FRESH fuel. Has the vehicle been parked for long? Is the carb accel pump working? Have you checked the plugs? Are they wet? Dry?
SPARK. Enough spark energy AND AT THE RIGHT TIME
Check spark FIRST by eliiminating everything "south" of the coil. That is, "rig" a spark gap right at the coil tower, and do not use the coil wire, to start with. "Cranking" you should have a hot snappy spark about 3/8" or longer.
Next, "resistance check" at least the coil wire. Old rule of thumb is you want to see less than 1000 ohms per foot of wire
Inspect the distributor, for rust, debri, spark damage around reluctor / pickup coil. Inspect for shaft wear. "Work" the distributor connector in/ out a few times to scrub the terminals and to "feel" for tightness.
Inspect the cap and rotor for damage, moisture, dirt, etc.
Inspect the plugs. Are they dry/ wet/ fouled/?
AND CHECK the timing. For a stock cam you want at least 10* BTC and performance cams more than that. 15--20 fro a hot street cam
03-13-2016, 11:49 AM
#6
Mopar Lover
How long was it running after the repair?
If I thought it was fuel I would take a small funnel and fill the bowl through the bowl vent, try and start it. If it starts and runs for a short time this will point to fuel pump/delivery system. If it doesn't starts or sputters then I would look at my Ignition Timing.
Doing it this way prevents dumping fuel in the carb many times and possibly washing the cylinders with multiple cranking could damage rings and cylinder walls.
If I thought it was fuel I would take a small funnel and fill the bowl through the bowl vent, try and start it. If it starts and runs for a short time this will point to fuel pump/delivery system. If it doesn't starts or sputters then I would look at my Ignition Timing.
Doing it this way prevents dumping fuel in the carb many times and possibly washing the cylinders with multiple cranking could damage rings and cylinder walls.
03-13-2016, 02:03 PM
#8
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was just thinking back over what all steps I took putting everything back together and just thought, I think I might have put the fuel pump eccentric back on too dead center instead of offset. So it might not actually be pumping the fuel pump arm up and down all the way
03-13-2016, 09:27 PM
#10
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Turns out it was the eccentric, had a washer on backwards and the eccentric was spinning loose on the camshaft. Turned it on and it started, ran wonderful but then the gasket under the timing cover and on top of the oil pan blew out and dumped all my oil. What's the exact name of that seal? I need to replace that now...
03-14-2016, 07:58 AM
#13
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/fel-tcs65631
Went ahead and ordered this set, just going to replace them all since they were all kinda crusty. I believe that seal is the bottom middle one in this set, right? It doesn't list off the individual seals
Went ahead and ordered this set, just going to replace them all since they were all kinda crusty. I believe that seal is the bottom middle one in this set, right? It doesn't list off the individual seals
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
