1973 318
Mopar Lover
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,509
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From: East Coast Canada
Anything/way you can make it breathe better. That's it in the most simple explanation. The quicker and easier the air/fuel can get in and out as exhaust the more power you will have. I know thats a crude explanation but thats it in a nutshell.
Admin
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 8,173
Likes: 200
From: Goffstown, NH
What are you looking to get for power out of it? A little more? A lot more? How far into the motor do you want to tear into it?
You can install alum heads, a number of different intakes (I'll get into this shortly), headers (same here), carbs, exhaust systems, ignition upgrades, then you have the tranny and rear axle to look at.
Since you do not want to remove the engine (I don't blame you), you are kind of limited as to what you can go with for an intake but are not as well. You can bolt on any intake that you want, BUT, you want it somewhat close to the RPM range of the stock cam shaft. I would look around for an intake that makes power from idle up to 5500 RPM or a little higher (idle-5500 RPM, 1500-6500 RPM, idle-6000 RPM, idle-6800 RPM). Look on Summitracing.com and compair there.
As for headers and exhaust work, You may be limited as to what you can do. You want to match the headers to the RPM range once again. Short tube headers are better for low RPM power (idle-5000). A long tube header is better for a higher RPM range (1500-6500 RPM). You will probably end up findig only headers with a 31" tube or 33" tubes. A full exhaust system will help it breathe as well. The more complete the system with mandel bends, the smoother it will flow.
Carbs, you can have electric choke, manual choke, and a wide range of CFM from 500 to 650. Choosing the right carb will depend on what else you do to the motor.
As for the ignition sytem, I would get the Orange Box from Mopar Performance. It is a great little box that can handle a mild built motor with ease. A good coil, wires and splugs will help out too.
A shift kit int eh tranny will help to smoot out shifts and make it shift quicker. As for the rear axle, you can have a shop install a posi unit so that both tires will put all that power to the ground.
I know it sounds like a lot, but do some thinking and research and take your time with it.
You can install alum heads, a number of different intakes (I'll get into this shortly), headers (same here), carbs, exhaust systems, ignition upgrades, then you have the tranny and rear axle to look at.
Since you do not want to remove the engine (I don't blame you), you are kind of limited as to what you can go with for an intake but are not as well. You can bolt on any intake that you want, BUT, you want it somewhat close to the RPM range of the stock cam shaft. I would look around for an intake that makes power from idle up to 5500 RPM or a little higher (idle-5500 RPM, 1500-6500 RPM, idle-6000 RPM, idle-6800 RPM). Look on Summitracing.com and compair there.
As for headers and exhaust work, You may be limited as to what you can do. You want to match the headers to the RPM range once again. Short tube headers are better for low RPM power (idle-5000). A long tube header is better for a higher RPM range (1500-6500 RPM). You will probably end up findig only headers with a 31" tube or 33" tubes. A full exhaust system will help it breathe as well. The more complete the system with mandel bends, the smoother it will flow.
Carbs, you can have electric choke, manual choke, and a wide range of CFM from 500 to 650. Choosing the right carb will depend on what else you do to the motor.
As for the ignition sytem, I would get the Orange Box from Mopar Performance. It is a great little box that can handle a mild built motor with ease. A good coil, wires and splugs will help out too.
A shift kit int eh tranny will help to smoot out shifts and make it shift quicker. As for the rear axle, you can have a shop install a posi unit so that both tires will put all that power to the ground.
I know it sounds like a lot, but do some thinking and research and take your time with it.
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