I am working on my grandsons 2010 Dodge Avenger, 2.4L (4 cyll) automatic. He parked it a couple of years ago due to a transmission error code. He did his due diligence and replaced the transmission solenoid pack per research done on the internet. Fast forward to today, I have the car and it had a P0755 code which is 2-4 solenoid signal. I removed the plug from the solenoid pack and tested the 2-4 solenoid for resistance, I did the same for all of them and each one showed a resistance within tolerance (.5 - 9 ohms) they were all equal in the range of 5-6 ohms. I was able to acquire a wiring schematic and tested the yel/org wire which feeds the sol pack, and the TCM. No voltage. For test purposes, I spliced into said wire and got voltage to the sol pack and the TCM. Code P0755 went away, but now code P0883 - high input to TCM comes on. Car still will not shift out of 2nd gear. Researching this, codes P0755 and P0883, along with P0700 and others, point to a possible bad TCM. Is there anything else I can check before shelling out money for a new/reman TCM?

I am thinking about getting a used one to save a few $$$. I found one on eBay with the same part # and same VIN number except for the last 6 digits which I know is just the production number of cars built. Any suggestions would be appreciated. My grandson is going to give the car to his sister, so I am basically working on it for free, minus cost of parts, so trying to be as frugal as possible.

Forgot to add - before I did the test splice, I checked fuse #33 per the wiring diagram, it was good. however, when I checked the yel-org wire coming out of the TIPM, I got zero voltage, which leads me to believe bad TIPM which is why I ran the jumper/test wire. So I am thinking I need to replace the TIPM in addition to possibly the TCM. I know this is a common problem, I have a 2006 PT Cruiser that had codes directly related to the TIPM, a salvage yard unit corrected this except for the e' fuel pump which I ended up wiring in my own relay for. As for the 'voltage input high' code, I checked it with the engine running and it shows charging voltage - 13.9 both at the fuse and at my jumper wire; scan tool verifies this.

 

I dont know 100%....
But here is my thoughts.... I think you narrowed it down the problem in the rite direction....
But i think what you did was feed it full voltage.... But i think the TCM and PCM are trying to control the solenoid and cant with it being direct current...
I think one of those two units are trying to use a controlled ground for variable voltage on/off...
I would go fish for a broken wire or relay fault...
Just my 2 cents..
Keep us posted...

 

There is no voltage coming out of the TIPM on the yel/org wire so I am thinking bad TIPM. I had TIPM issues with my '06 PT Cruiser also. A used one from the salvage yard solved the problem. When I checked the voltage at fuse #33 it showed battery voltage with car not running and charging voltage with it running, but I was thinking the same thing, there is probably a voltage regulator circuit inside the TIPM that keeps the voltage at 12V, that might explain the code saying high voltage input. I am going to go to the salvage yard and see if I can find another TIPM, probably will get a TCM also just in case. The nearest salvage yards are two hours from me so I don't want to have to make multiple trips!

 

Hope that solves the issue (TIPM).....
Man i am spoiled.... I got like 30 wrecking yards around me within a 10 min drive... Safe travels... And keep us posted...

 

Update on the 2010 Avenger. I tested all the solenoids all were good at 1.7 ohms, checked the wiring to search for a broken wire, all tested good. I ordered a remanufactured TCM/PCM which was programmed to the VIN. Drove it a few blocks, seemed to be okay. Tried again the next day, and it would shift out of 2nd gear, then rev high like it was in neutral, then slam into 3rd gear. Check engine light came on and then it went back into limp mode and wouldn't come out of 2nd. Trouble code changed from solenoid A (2/4) to solenoid C (O/D). I contacted the seller of the TCM and they sent me another one. Put that in today, now it still will not shift out of 2nd but there are no trouble codes, no check engine light. While I was waiting for the replacement part, I changed the fluid and filter. There was zero debris in the pan, not sure if my grandson changed it when he replaced the solenoid pack, but I will ask him. I also removed the solenoid pack in case he got dirt in it, cleaned it with carb cleaner and sprayed the holes in the mounting plate of the trans, blew through the holes with compressed air, let it sit overnight to let the remaining fluid drip out (put the pan on to keep any dirt or debris from getting in since I am working outside). Now I don't know what to think. Could it be a stuck valve in the valve body?

 

Could be.....
But i think at this point you are going to need to verify with a scan tool to see if the solenoids are even getting the command ...

 

Update on 2010 Dodge Avenger. I ordered a rebuilt TCM/PCM from Flashmasters. Car still stayed in limp mode and would not shift out of 2nd. They very kindly sent me another one, same problem. So I decided it must be something else. I also noticed some other strange things like the dash message center giving odd messages and the gear shift indicator lights would flash randomly back and forth. It was also kicking out weird codes, that would change every time I cleared them. It would change from Solenoid A, to Solenoid B, etc. and also some odd engine codes even though everything was working okay. I had some similar issues with a 2006 PT Cruiser that I have. I got a used TIPM for it and that fixed those problems, so I found a part no.s matching TIPM on ebay and put that in. Boom - it started shifting like normal. Key takeaway is that the TIPM and TCM have to communicate, if one or the other is bad, no go. Just for test purposes, I reinstalled the first TCM from Flashmasters and car would not shift. I put in the original TCM and it would shift but very erratically. So I am leaving the second TCM unit and returning the first one with a note stating just what I have said. Kudos to Flashmasters - I highly recommend them for their service, they did not hesitate to send a second unit and did not harass me about sending the other back, which I ended up keeping for about two weeks until I was sure the issue was resolved. Now, I just hope their unit will last, it does have a one year warranty, so fingers crossed....It is apparent to me that Chrysler TIPMs are a weak point in their system, might not be a bad idea to just replace them on any used Mopar! I have put used units in both of these cars now, you just have to make sure the part no.s match. The last two letters AB, AC, etc. do not matter. I will follow up with this thread if I have any other issues.

 

Something I saw just the other day on YouTube was that you must clear all the codes after replacing these parts before operating the vehicle witch makes sense.

 

I always do so that I can run it and see if anything comes back

 

Thats great News... and fantastic tips.... Thanks for sharing... Cheers... Keep us posted, down the road....