So Im running into an issue with my engine rebuild that the oil pickup is completely pressed againt the oil pan. It is the factory style similar to the link I have at the botom of this post so I know it has a "channel" for the oil but should it be touching to the point of I can not hold the oil pan in place I have to get a couple bolts in to suck the pan up to the bottom of the engine.

The new pan is a factory replacement exactly the same as the one that was on the car and the oil pickup was not removed.

Any opinios on this matter would be helpfull.

Thanks,

Gary

http://www.summitracing.com/int/part.../model/newport

 

if i remember right. the pick up is to touch the oil pan to keep it from rotating. my 1967 coronet factory service manual says that the bottom of the strainer is to be parallel with the machined surface of the cyl block. for the 273-318 engine.

 

Re-measure the old and the new oil pan to see what the depth difference is?
Then reset the oil pick up accordingly.

 

Add a factory windage tray..

 

Now... There is an Idea....

 

the new pan and old pan were the same depth and I couldnt get the pickup to sit right in there by bending it because it was way oo far off so I changed directions completely and picked up a different oil pan that holds more oil, a windage tray and a differentoil pickup.

Now when i put it together it all sits perfect and the pickup without the windage tray in is about 1/2 an inch from the bottom. now the issue I have is that the pickup when it is sitting parallel to the block is not that tight. but it is tight enough that i cant get it to go around another full turn to line it up again.......

Thoughts?

 

black iron pipe thread tape. thats why i dont like pipe threads. i have cut lots of it on a lathe. it seams that the depth of a pipe thread cut is standard but no one fallows it . one engineer i worked for had a chart he developed for the right depth but had to be used on the machine we used. and the chasers had to set just right.

 

Yeah I have never had to deal with this before. Are you saying black iron pipe thread tape is good to use? I tried googling that and keep finding Teflon tape. Is that the same stuff?

Thanks.

 

I would not use tape on the thread, adding any material that could become a blockage is dangerous. A small electric weld where the tube and pump body meet or a tap or die to desired size is safer.

 

i wanted to say " Teflon tape" but couldn't remember how to spell it. just dont put it on the first 2 threads. cause if it gets into the system it will jam the oil pump releve plunger . al so must pipe threads dont seal on first 2 threads any way

 

Thanks everyone.

Now Im running into an issue that if I put the windage tray on with the oil pickup it pushes the tray up and touches the crank shaft.

Has anyone ever had to modify the windage try to clear the pickup before so that this does not happen.

Thanks again.

 

Is this a stroker motor ????

 

Nope stock internals. Just new top end and oil pickup and pan.

 

IF it is 1/2" + the windage tray ??? IT IS Too far away from the bottom of the pan.... libal to suck air under hard acceleration

 

My 1970 manual says the pickup "must" touch the bottom of the pan, for both big and small blocks. That would be for a stock unit with a dimpled bottom and crescent opening.

The non OEM with a screen only on the bottom ideally should be 3/8".

 

Thanks!