So i haven't been on here in a while, but when things go wrong i know where to go for the info. So I just replaced most of my ignition system, cap to plugs. now i will only get spark when i release the key from the START position and it goes to RUN. I only get one plug to fire when this happens. I replaced my voltage regulator as well, but i don't think that would have and effect on this. Any suggestions???


68 Polara with a 383. Magnetic pick up dist. and one of those damn electronic ignition boxes with horrible wires that i don't want there.

 

Quote [My car hates me]
I know the feeling. I think this is why we refer to them as she. Sounds like the ballast resister to me. It is the white ceramic block on the fire wall. Its purpose is to allow full voltage when turning the starter for easier starting, then less ( I think it's around 5 volts) when it is in the run position. The reason is our coils use less than twelve volts to run and full voltage will burn them out.

[ quote ]I only get one plug to fire when this happens

I am curious how you check this. Is it always the same plug? Using the key or a screw driver on the starter solenoid. Might be the key switch as well but I would look into the ballast first. Put the key in the run position and try at the solenoid. Take your time and get back with results.

 

i replaced the resistor, it was bad, but i am still getting the same situation. when i release the key, i get a small combustion. it is just one cylinder. which one it is depends on the position of the rotor, as if it were running normally but she wont. i don't know if she really liked the old plugs she had and is mad at me for changing them, ( you know how women get when you put different things in their holes) conducted all idiot checks, firing order, dist. not 180 out, etc. everything is connected or so it appears. i have to be missing something stupid... this sucks!

 

did you try to start it with the key on and using a screw driver under the hood. Kinda sounds like the switch isn't working right. You can run a jumper wire from the battery + side to the key side of the ballast. This will by pass the switch.
I have run wires from the solenoid to a push button switch on the dash but that is not the stock appearance folks like these days, it does works though.
The electronic conversion should not be an issue as it worked before. These units usually work very well, I use them on all my older cars. Still might want to check some of the components. The orange box seems to be likely to fail these days as well.
A bad ballast will not kill "all power" to the car which I understood was the symptom. All a ballast will do is this:


Bad ballast
[ Quote] If you crank the car it SHOULD fire, then as you release the key, it should die.

This is because on a Chrysler product, the ballast is bypassed during starting with what is known as the "ignition 2" circuit from the ignition switch.

I stoled this from another thread here just to put up more info.

 

ok so i am sitting in Naples Italy right now, so getting parts is not an easy task fyi. I tried to jump the starter solenoid, all i got was a lot of sparks at the screwdriver, i don't think the starter engaged, but it will when i turn the key, so i probably did that wrong, and didn't want to fry anything so i stopped. I then tossed a wire from the + side of the coil to the batt. and nothing different happened. it seems that after i changed the resistor, i now lost the spark when the key is back in the RUN position.

 

I noticed you were in Naples. I was just trying to come up with some tips.
I don't like to just throw parts at a problem, I would rather figure it out as I am sure you do as well.
The screw driver will spark until it makes good contact. Should not be a problem. A good big flat blade works best for me.
I wish I had a pic I could use for a little help. The resister could be bad. been hearing a lot of chatter about new parts being bad but that might just be grumpy folks not liking the fact they are not made here in the states. I have had no such bad luck myself. The jumper is to by pass the key switch. If things are working with the switch than the jumper does no real good. Do you have access to a remote starter switch? This will let you work under the hood, and not use a screw driver.

[Quote] it seems that after i changed the resistor, i now lost the spark when the key is back in the RUN position.
try the old one again. you didn't throw it away did you? Did you check all the connections old wires could mean a lot of resistance.
Might be time to take a break and come back with a fresh perspective.
let me take a picture or two and get back to ya.

 

so i got the motor to crank a few times by shorting the solinoid, but still no dice. but when she is cranked by the key, she still only has spark when the key returns to the run position (verified from coil) she really does not like me right now..

 

Replace the ignition switch

 

if it was the switch then by shorting the solenoid she should have started.

 

Not if the switch is bad in the run position. Put the key in run then check for voltage at the coil. Should get about 5 to 8 volts at the coil right? Do you have some one to help? If so have them turn the key while you hold a plug wire close to a ground to look for spark. Use a glove. Let us know how the spark looks. Should be steady blue snaps. If you have spark when the motor is turning, then we gotta look at the carb. Is the motor turning over good. Low battery will draw from ignition to turn motor.

 

Sounds like the starter relay. The ballast resistor needs to be correct for the coil being used. The ECU needs to be well grounded at point of mounting (scrape paint to bare metal)
Putting a + jumper to the coil will get you nothing as it is the-negative that is interupted with electronic ignition. Is it a 2 wire ballast or 4 wire?
Here on diagrams of both. Do you need a wiring diagram for your car? You did'nt say what it is.
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/Ign...ystem_4pin.jpg
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/Ign...ystem_5pin.jpg
If you put a + positive jumper to your ballast, that will tell you if the stsrt relay is bad. If it still fires only when you let off, check dist. gap and ECU

 

alright so i ran a few more test this morning. It appears that i was wrong about where i get spark. it's not when the key is in the run pos. but when it's between run and off. nothing in start still. I have shorted the resistor to the batt. and nothing changed. And i believe i have the "hybrid 5-pin ECU, 2 post resistor" set up. While i know this is not correct, it is how i bought the car, and she has ran (off and on) for the last 3 years on this set up. I found a wire that was not ran right. it went from the pin on the ecu that was suppose to go to the + side of the resistor went to some little blue box that was grounded to the block and has 2 wires coming off of it, which look like they went to an old electric choke that is no longer in use (the box not the choke) I have an older trouble shooting mentality. if you didn't touch it, it hasn't changed... this does not seem to be the case. either i messed something up while i was drunk and working on her, or something else broke, or wants to work right which something is not letting it do so. after i bought this car i realized she had some bad bad men work on her.. and i have been trying to fix what they did on a married military mans budget. i don't know of any more test i can run on her. i am pretty sure it's time to go back to where she should be, ditch this ECU and go back to good ol' "I'll fail on you, but you can fix me quick" points.

 

Hey Grease,
You should still be able to find the problem, your car doesn't hate you, but she wants attention. If it's not a daily driver needed for work then just take a step back. look through the schematics rdrunner1974 posted you will find the problem with time. He also said "Putting a + jumper to the coil will get you nothing as it is the-negative that is interupted with electronic ignition."
I believe that is the same with points open the gap and trigger the coil. Notice the negative from the coil goes to the trigger (points or magnetic pick up Coils) still needs power. All the jump to positive side of the coil does is bypass everything between the battery and the positive side of the coil. Just makes sure the ignition is not a problem It is called process of elimination. Myself, I actually like a points set-up. Guess it is because I learned them first. Same reason I like Carter carbs over Holley. Be patient you will get it just gotta start at the battery, use a volt meter, and check every connection all the way to the plugs . Old wires dirty connections Even the battery ground can cause problems if there is crud on either end of the cables. The
Truth is out there.
(Quote)
While i know this is not correct, it is how i bought the car, and she has ran (off and on) for the last 3 years on this set up. I found a wire that was not ran right. it went from the pin on the ecu that was suppose to go to the + side of the resistor went to some little blue box that was grounded to the block and has 2 wires coming off of it, which look like they went to an old electric choke that is no longer in use (the box not the choke)

This looks like your problem, I take "off and on" to mean never quit right. Also you need a choke or the best you might get in colder weather is a sneeze. Is it cold in Italy now? It is here. Not much gas and too much air. Popping off once after you let go of the key sounds like a sneeze. This is why I ask you to verify spark at the plugs. Might want to remove the whole set-up and put it in the right way. If points are what you are really familiar with, I say go for it. I don't like throwing parts but if it's been goofed, your best choice is, start over. Do you have the points set up? Should be cheapest way as well.
WOW that was long winded sorry,Good Luck Keep us posted.

 

what i meant by off and on, is when she goes down. I do have a choke on her, it's an electric. but the box that is bolted to the block looks like it is an old electronic choke system, that is no longer in use. I appreciate the help. I got hooked up with a garage here that has lots of parts for old Mopars, so i am stopping by there after work to see if they have anything i might be able to resolve this issue with. I will keep posting what ever i find or break. Thanks again guys. i know my train of thought might be a little messy.

 

Right On Grease, Let us know what's up. Try to get a service manual as well. It really helps trouble shooting.