dodgem880

I had some friends help me set the timing on my truck today. It was 30 degrees off. Reset it to 6 before TDC. Runs and sounds much better but, I'm still fighting a hard acceleration problem. If you press too hard it will fall on it's face. Either hesitate, stall or pop through the carb.

I purchased a manufactured carburetor a few months ago and put it on without driving it and it seemed to idle fine at the time.

Only now that I'm trying to drive it I realize something is wrong.

Advance Auto Part list two carbs for a 1977 Dodge W200 with a 360 and automatic transmission.

United Carb Remanufactured Carburetor 2 Barrel
Part No. 5-5180
2BBL; Holley Fuel System; Automatic Trans.; Carb 2245, Light Duty

and

United Carb Remanufactured Carburetor 2 Barrel
Part No. 6-6264
2BBL; Holley Fuel System; Automatic Trans.; Carb 2245, Heavy Duty

I picked the latter, Heavy Duty variant. From what I can tell the only difference has to do with emissions and since my truck has no smog stuff on it; It seemed like the better choice. The previous carb appeared to be the "light duty" variant with more vacuum fittings which were unused and capped off for my application.

When I got the carb I made sure the accelerator pump linkage was set correctly by the book (it was wrong) before installing it on the truck and installed a manual choke cable (The heat riser system isn't working).

Tomorrow I plan to put the old carb back on to see what happens if that doesn't work I'll need some ideas. I'll let you know what happens before doing anything else.

The only things I can think of is float adjustment ( didn't touch it)
and doing a compression test on the engine to see if there is a bigger problem.

Here is some additional information about the previous carb and current one (both 2245s).

Previous carb
http://www.carburetion.com/CarbNumber.asp?Number=R8598
R 8598
4104465
0029

Current
http://www.carburetion.com/CarbNumber.asp?Number=R7188
R 7188 A
3870948
0986

Thanks

RacerHog

Make sure the accelerator pump if squirting as soon a you move the throttle.
If its not. Move the rod Closer to the arm mounting and see if that helps make it squirt sooner. If its not getting enough Juice its going lean and coughing, stumbling and so on. The carb choice should be fine. I'm with you on that, Good Choice was the H.D.... just my 2 cents.

always good to perform Compression test... "You cant tune a faulty engine" I always say.

Also So... Put a Vacuum gauge on it and lets get a reading... It might show that the timing might be late?
Should show to be at least 18" @ Idle

Iowan

Those carbs were a pain in the butt in 1977, off idle stumble and no performance at all. The trick was to install a early version of the same carb, 72ish if that helps. I had a 77 half ton 2WD with a 360, personally I would pitch the 2v and go with a Holley 600, I did and it was on the truck for 25 years.

dodgem880

Yeah, I've heard most people don't like the stock carbs that came on these trucks. Neither this Holley or the Carter BBD (on 318). I've had my other truck for about a year and a half and I've never touched the Carter on it. Runs pretty good.

Today after my work shift, I played with the accelerators pump and it seems to be working fine and adjusting it made no difference.

However, if I set the choke about half way the truck takes off fine. So, that has to be a big clue. Lean condition?

Vacuum @ idle is hovering around 16 to 16.5 inches. So, a little short of the minimum of 18.

I put the old carburetor (R 8598) back on and it runs alright and accelerates fine now.

So, there must be something wrong with the reman I got.

wrong carb? (Maybe there IS a difference between HD a LD)
improper rebuild?
internal damage?
wrong jets?

I doubt the part store will take the carb back since it's had gas ran through it but, I'm sure gonna try anyway. That thing cost too much not to work right.

Iowan

They were emissions carbs set to run learner than a popcorn fart.

RacerHog

I agree... Send it back...

dodgem880

I returned it successfully . They didn't give me any trouble.

I think I'm going to get a rebuild kit and try to use the carburetor I have for now. I know that doesn't make any sense but, for some reason I want my trucks to run the application correct carb. Even though their not running the correct alternator and I have plans of doing the GE HEI mod in the future...


However, out of curiosity. I was wondering if there are any popular 2bbl aftermarket carbs currently on the market. It looks like most of them are 4bbl and I have no interest in a non-stock intake. I suppose an adapter plate could be an option? Would that cause a problem for just normal driving and pulling a trailer once in a blue moon? I'd like to know what my options are for a motor such as this. I just drive around town, home and work. I've never towed anything but, would still like the option.



Iowan, the earlier carb? Are you referring to the Holley 2210?

TVLynn

You could use a 2bbl Holley with an adapter, That opens another can of worms There are some very small check ***** so take note where they are

dodgem880

I put my order in for a rebuild kit today but, I decided to continue my research on alternative carbs. I wish to better understand aftermarket carbs and want to see if my research will lead me to the correct choice.

I went on the Holley website and used their "Carburetor Selector" (Stock cu in 360 / Redline 5000RPM)

I got back results for their Model 2300 2bbl street carb.

According to this post the 2300, 2210 and 2245 all use the same bolt pattern. So, that should mean a adapter should not be necessary? However, I'm not sure the bores would align. When I remove the 2245 to rebuild it I'll check the measurements of the intake out of curiosity.

The 2300 comes in a 350CFM and 500CFM variant. Their site recommended the 500CFM.

However, based on this post and this web page the 2210/2245 should be around 350 cfm? If that is correct. I think I want the 350CFM 2300 because this forum thread states the advantage of a smaller cfm rating are throttle response, fuel consumption, engine longevity and better low rpm power and drivability. Which all sounds good to me.

So does the above make any sense or would it fail? Would the 2300 still need a adapter plate or would I have to buy it and try it to find out?

dodgem880

Well, I got my carb rebuilt. Left it in carb dip for 8 hours. Blasted the pickup tubes with carb cleaner.

I set the float wrong so I had to open it up again but, I think I got it.

I got the vacuum idle up to 17 inches.

I can't road test it right now since I got the front driveshaft out getting the double cardan rebuilt. But, I locked the t-case and moved it back and forth a few times and it didn't bog, so it seems promising.

I used kit CRB 25750A (Here is a Cross Interchange) from napa. It doesn't have a power valve (my research suggest PVs are no longer available for the 2245, luckily I don't need a new one) Has a o-ring for cold idle enrichment valve. seal for bowl vent valve besides the usual stuff. Would have been nice if it came with an air horn gasket..

pic1 - cleaned up and reassembled
pic2 - I had a hard time getting the sealing surface for the seat cleaned up due to the casting around it. So I took this random bolt and hot glued a piece of scotchbrite pad to it and rotated it back and fourth by hand.
pic3 - The sealing surface cleaned up, there was some kind of black bits stuck on it from the old brass seats gasket.

RacerHog

Good to hear...

dodgem880

I have found this to be false.

The bolt pattern for the 2300 is 5.16" x 3.46"

The 2210/2245 is 3.75" x 2"

RacerHog

Isn't the 2300 a Ford style Carb?

moparted

I say timing chain

dodgem880

Yes I believe so. I was originally interested in the 2300 because I thought it could be a bolt in replacement without an adapter plate or intake change, but never pursued it further.

Holley recently put out a new 2bbl efi system that's a bolt-in replacement for the 2300 carburetor. I was already seriously considering a GM TBI kit from Affordable Fuel Injection but, the this new kit from Holley looked more tidy and streamlined and I though it would not require an adapter plate. Well, after some measuring to confirm, turns out it would require one for my application.

So, this is where I've been.

I could installed a wideband 02 sensor and try to tune my existing 2245 ( if I could even find a compatible jet assortment for it)
I could go efi (set it and forget it) <-- really learning towards this option.
Install an aftermarket intake and carburetor. ( I really don't want an aluminum intake. I don't like the way they look on old crusty engines. I also want maximum durability over weight savings)

Well, I could check it out. Thanks

It's been while since I made the original post. What I ended up doing in the end was rebuilding the trucks original carburetor and returning the reman unit. That change made the truck drivable and to be honest it does alright in the summer, but it's not as good as it could be. Thats why I figured the problem is a/f mixture.