Hi guys, again I have a problem with the car (yes, I'm the guy of problems in the forum )

I was on the road and the car suddenly stopped, I checked the carburetor because was imposible to start again the car (if I stopped accelerating the car stops again) and I saw that the cap that was in the carburetor PCV hose disappeared so I improvised a new cap and try to start the car. The car started but inmediatly when shift into drive or reverse it stops again but expel a lot of gasoline vapor through the carburetor air horn, If I left the car idling it starts to rev up and down by itself and sometimes just dies.

I'm not sure what can be wrong, I have a feeling it may be another big vacuum leak in some place but I tried to find it using carburetor cleaner but nothing happened.

 

post up some pictures... maybe we can help...

 

Is a bit difficult but maybe I can record a video and post it tomorrow

 

Why not start by replacing EVERY rubber hose in the engine compartment

 

I'm going to buy a few meters of rubber hose, maybe in some place of those hoses are vacuum leaks.

The car actually has a thing that is marked as "Vacuum amplifier", has an incoming vacuum line from a vacuum port on the manifold, other line goes to the canister and a third line is unplugged but doesn't generates vacuum through this line. What is this thing for? is necessary or could rest in peace?

 

I had a similar problem once. I had over rich mixture caused by crud holding the float valve open. I could run the car, only at wide open throttle! The easiest way to fix it was to disconnect the fuel line from the carb (block it with the finger or let it flow to another container) and let the engine idle until the carb ran out of fuel (you have to start it full throttle at first, but as the fuel level dropped, it ran better). As the carb got totally empty, the float valve opened, and released the crud. Then reconnect the fuel line, and all is good. I had to do this many times over the period of 6 months or so, as there was more crud in the tank, going past the filter.

Don't know if that's your problem, but if its too rich, it will start easier when cold, and you will see black smoke from the exhaust when it runs.

 

I don't think this is my problem because I never see black smoke on the exhaust but your problem to me sounds like bad float adjustment

 

My problem appeared suddenly on an almost daily driven car, and eventually dissipated. Problem was that the car was sitting around before I got to it, so there was dirt in the gas tank. Once I started driving it regularly, the crud found its way in the fuel system. Eventually, there was no more crud.

 

Vacuum amp is part of the emission system. Sounds like most of it is missing so why not finish the job

 

sorry I failed with the video but I get the problem fixed, apparently the problem was a bad float level so I adjusted it like the edelbrock owners manual said and now the car is running well, also I take this opportunity to change the entire ruber hoses as TVLynn recommended and removed the vacuum amplifier.

Now everything is fine

 

on the edelbrock carb you might be able to run the float level at 5/16 stock is 7/32. this does raise the level and if fuel flows out of the main discharge nozzle a idle. put it back at 7/32. after looking at tons of charts on AFBs it had a very wide range of float levels over its life on many diff engines. so i figured some experimentation could be done. BUT take it slow, and be ready to fix it on road if needed. hint # 101 on chrysler engines ALLWAYS put a clean rag over the two openings on each head under the carb. that keeps parts from getting lost.

 

But with the float level at 5/16 would be possibilities that the engine stops on a hill or down a hill? Some time ago I got this problem with my old Holley 2245, and the diagnostic was float level too low

 

the key phrase is OLD and Holley. my saying to use 5/16 is based on my usage on flat ground in kansas. if you are in hills you might not like 5/16. sorry i didnt think of hills. but a off road guy did tell that AFBs do handle steeper hills than most carbs, but remember how steep. but DONT talk Holley carbs with me, just leave them out of the talk.

 

Set the float at the kit chart setting for that carb.....

 

What could be the benefits of having a low float level ?