crwchf16

Hi all, it's been a while since I posted but it's been busy here. Sorry.
Anyway I'm back to work on Old Red. The next part of the rebuild will be a complete replacement of the fuel, intake and exhaust systems. The stock stuff I have just doesn't have the capacity to let the new engine breathe properly and I need to upgrade. I can replace anything on a car but choosing the right stuff for upgrade like this is tricky. There are almost too many options to choose from so I can definitely use your help.
Basically guys this is your opportunity to design a dream system and let someone else pay for it. As you know I'm not looking to go crazy here, I just want to get good performance out of the engine overhaul without killing my wallet.
How do I figure out the right CFM for a carb/TBI unit for this engine? (The engine rebuild ups the displacement form 318 c.i. to about 323 c.i.) I want to stick with TBI if possible because it's simpler but this is negotiable if a carb will give me better results. Personally I prefer Holley equipment but this is not set in stone either. What sort of intake-carb/TBI combo would you suggest?
I checked my home state emissions laws and I can ditch the smog pump, etc. This opens up a lot of options so I will be installing ceramic coated or stainless steel headers with a dual exhaust. I'm leaning towards Flowtech or Hooker headers but haven't decided yet. What are your experiences with these?

Chryco Psycho

with multi port EFI the throttle body size is far less important , I used a 1200 cfm T body on a 440 & it works fine , if you have EFI now the throttle body is very likely not the limiting factor , you would want a minimum of 600 CFM , but you have to have large enough injectors to supply adequate fuel , most engines currently seem to be designed around 40-45 ci / cylinder 40 lb / hr should be adequate .
As for exhaust 2 1/4 " mandrel bent should flow well for a small block with a midrange powerband , going to large can hurt velocity / power & milage.
Most of this is just average needs , I have no clue what the engine combo is

crwchf16

Thanks! Is there some more specific info you'd need?

PK1

For lower cost Fuel Injection that works well in a daily driver.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hl...s/media/images

Intake for either carb or FI.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...r_gap-sb.shtml

This intake and FI can handle some HP. So if you decide to up the heads or cam it later you wont need to change anything on the intake side.

78D200

This is the kit that I was going to recommend too.

This is an LA motor correct? What do you have on there right now? TBI (Throttle Body Injection) or a carb?

For the exhaust, I'd look for a set of shorty headers since most truck motors make their power below 5500 RPM, the shorty headers will work much better than a set of long tube headers. I'd go with stainless steel over ceramic coated as they will last longer (IMO) yet the ceramic coated will look nicer. I'd also go with a full stainless steel exhaust, probably 2.5" if you are planning on staying with a sinlge setup. If true dual with a cross over, I'd do 2.0".

440roadrunner

Sorry, I disagree with the particular Pro--Jection system listed. These are far from a "full featured" EFI and there are lots of talk around the www about problems with them.

But the FIRST question you have to answer is, "does your state" have any smog requirements in effect? If so, you need to find out "what" and deal with them accordingly. I can guarantee you that this Holley system does NOT meet smog requirements

So far as TBI TB size, it is not critical, but you DO need to match the injector size with your engine build. So if you were to buy an oversized TBI system, it might just come with too--large injectors.

In my own case, I'm currently playing with a Holley Commander 950 system I bought used. It's the largest TB they offered, with the largest injectors. On my mild 318, the pulse width of the injectors is way down on the short side, and these injectors should be reduced.

INJECTION

Unless you are familiar with engine tuning, IE how to establish A/F, timing, and are handy with your computer (some systems are computer programmable) I'd stay with a carb

Also, unless you have the money to spend on some dyno time. I would figure on spending at least an additional two hundred bucks or so to get a wideband O2 sensor/ display. I bought an Innovate system for just under that. It has both wide and narrow band outputs, so not only does it display the wideband output, but it can interface with your EFI, Holley, Megasquirt, etc.

It also depends on your expectations. You going to do much off road, rough ground, hill climbs? A properly set up EFI has an advantage there

One thing I would definately recommend you do, is to wander over to here:

http://www.binderplanet.com/

and read this stuff:

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=47254

This is about Megasquirt, but there is still a lot of good info here

http://www.megamanual.com/mtabcon.htm

Gorts 5th

what's that part number of that system?
i want to know more

440truck

Definitely go fuel injection!!! Any pics of the newly built motor? new paint?

Carbs are fine for someone who wants to work on their car all the time, but the right fuel injection system can easily make your truck more street friendly, cold start friendly, etc.

All injection kits are not created equal, do your research and read reviews on different systems...and to the people who say don't due it if your not familiar with EFI....I strongly disagree...you gotta learn somewhere sometime..no point in being stuck in the past unwillingly to learn new things ..

As far as the headers so...stainless will last longer then the truck as long as its a quality brand(stainless on my truck and my girlfriends Camaro) Ceramic headers are also nice, but give it 5 years and a few winters and 50% of the coating flakes off anyway....

crwchf16

Ok, so I've figured out the headers part, thanks guys. I'm going to do the rest of the exhaust myself, welding everything together. I've got a choice between standard aluminized pipes and stainless. Obviously stainless will be more expensive but should last longer. Old Red will be living in the snow belt so salt is a consideration. What do you guys think, would stainless be worth the cost?

78D200

Absolutely! I live in NH and I would only put stainless steel exhaust on my vehicles. I've made the mistake of going with the other stuff and after a year it would rot off.