rebuilt 440 won't start
#1
rebuilt 440 won't start
My dad recently rebuilt a 440 out of a motor home and dropped it in his 76 d100. He put new rings and a cam in it. It has a Carter afb on it. All wiring is hooked up. Has fuel going to the carb. Spark is good. (Took #1 plug out and checked) compression at #1 is 120. Timing is dead on, not 180 out. We've tried anywhere from 10 below to 10 above tdc. I added a ground to the frame as well. It will turn over and over but just won't start. It kind of sounds like there is a hard spot in the motor. Any ideas? Input would be greatly appreciated. He really wants this thing going.
#2
If your sure its times rite..... Pour a 1/2 of a Paint can cup of gas down the carb and see if it hits on any of the cylinders?????.....
Make sure the Accelerator pump in the carb is working.....
Make sure the Accelerator pump in the carb is working.....
#3
Welcome.
Not to question your abilities but I would want to check actual TDC with a piston stop.
Give it lots of advance and a drink with a spray bottle.
Check the firing order to rotation, it`s been done opposite in my garage by my son, who should have known better.
Not to question your abilities but I would want to check actual TDC with a piston stop.
Give it lots of advance and a drink with a spray bottle.
Check the firing order to rotation, it`s been done opposite in my garage by my son, who should have known better.
#4
"Actual TDC". This says a LOT. Some vans and motorhomes / heavy trucks had the timing marks in different places.
1.....CHECK TDC with a piston stop. This is an accepted practice.
2......DO NOT assume the cam is in correctly. Read your shop manual. There's a procedure, meant to detect slipped cam drives, that allows you to estimate cam events. The intake opens somewhat before TDC so you can mark the wheel and estimate that easily. You don't really even need a dial indicator, just a way to insure the marks are right
3.......There is no need to fiddle with timing. There are two ways to insure you are on no1 compression
A.....One way is to bring the marks to TDC, and look at the no1 and no6 valves. One set will be "both closed" and the other will be "both open". The cylinder with the closed valves is "ready to fire"
B......Other way is to stick your finger in the no1 hole, bump until you feel compression. Continue to turn slowly until the marks start to come up. DO NOT bring the marks to TDC. Instead, set the marks up to about 15--20 BTC or where it is that you want initial timing. With a stock / mild cam, 10-15 degrees. With a hotter cam, 15--20 BTC
Next, stick the dist. in with the rotor "coming towards" the corner of the no1 plug tower. Don't forget a B/ RB goes CCW. Rotate the dist. CCW "retard." Slowly rotate it back advanced (CW) until.................
with points, until the points just barely open. Use a light or a meter
or with breakerless, until the reluctor is aligned with the pickup coil core.
If you get good at this, you can move the dist back and forth, powered up, and create a spark at the trigger point.
THIS SHOULD if done correctly be close enough in time to start and run with no further fiddle.
You can also check timing "on the starter" with a light.
Make SURE you have a good spark. Spark should jump nice, hot, blue, about 3/8 - 1/2" long. Check the cap / rotor is not wet / dirty / cracked / carbon tracked or punched through the middle
MAKE CERTAIN your fuel is fresh
Back in my Navy days (N.A.S. Miramar) a then-friend spent all Sat morning trying to fire a 396 in a 57 Chev. He finally came and got me, and was priming the carb from a Pepsi can. No........the can did not contain Pepsi...........I was JET FUEL.
1.....CHECK TDC with a piston stop. This is an accepted practice.
2......DO NOT assume the cam is in correctly. Read your shop manual. There's a procedure, meant to detect slipped cam drives, that allows you to estimate cam events. The intake opens somewhat before TDC so you can mark the wheel and estimate that easily. You don't really even need a dial indicator, just a way to insure the marks are right
3.......There is no need to fiddle with timing. There are two ways to insure you are on no1 compression
A.....One way is to bring the marks to TDC, and look at the no1 and no6 valves. One set will be "both closed" and the other will be "both open". The cylinder with the closed valves is "ready to fire"
B......Other way is to stick your finger in the no1 hole, bump until you feel compression. Continue to turn slowly until the marks start to come up. DO NOT bring the marks to TDC. Instead, set the marks up to about 15--20 BTC or where it is that you want initial timing. With a stock / mild cam, 10-15 degrees. With a hotter cam, 15--20 BTC
Next, stick the dist. in with the rotor "coming towards" the corner of the no1 plug tower. Don't forget a B/ RB goes CCW. Rotate the dist. CCW "retard." Slowly rotate it back advanced (CW) until.................
with points, until the points just barely open. Use a light or a meter
or with breakerless, until the reluctor is aligned with the pickup coil core.
If you get good at this, you can move the dist back and forth, powered up, and create a spark at the trigger point.
THIS SHOULD if done correctly be close enough in time to start and run with no further fiddle.
You can also check timing "on the starter" with a light.
Make SURE you have a good spark. Spark should jump nice, hot, blue, about 3/8 - 1/2" long. Check the cap / rotor is not wet / dirty / cracked / carbon tracked or punched through the middle
MAKE CERTAIN your fuel is fresh
Back in my Navy days (N.A.S. Miramar) a then-friend spent all Sat morning trying to fire a 396 in a 57 Chev. He finally came and got me, and was priming the carb from a Pepsi can. No........the can did not contain Pepsi...........I was JET FUEL.
#6
Terribly sorry it took so long to reply guys. Ended up being super simple. My dad had just pulled the dist cap off my 318 and put all the wires in like they were on my motor. He didn't realize they are supposed to be the opposite order. All the wires were in the right spot just the firing order was backwards. Got that all fixed. Now just gotta find a carb to supply the beast
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