Hello. I have a 1979 D100 step side. The passenger side differential seal is leaking. I open the pumpkin, removed pin but the chaft does not have enough play to be able to remove c-clip. Any suggestions. Thanks

 

Not sure what your asking.. But you need to remove the bolt that holds the shaft for the spider gears- hopefully yours is not broken, then remove the shaft & the two loose spider gears. Them you should have room to push the axle in to get the clip off

 

Depending on the rear axle, you'll have either a bolt or tension pin that holds the center pin in place. Once you have that out, the center pin should just slide right out. After that, remove the wheel and drum and then push the axle shaft in as far as you can and the C-clip should just call out.

 

The bolt that holds the center pin was welded, after grinding the weld off, I was able to remove the bolt and then the center pin. The c-clip on the driver side looks like it can be push out with no problem but the passenger side no matter how much I push the axle in, the c-clip does not clear the spider gear enough to be push out. I figure I ask before I start to remove spider gears. On a side note, I notice that the acorn assembly has some play. There is no tag, but I figure that the gearing is 3.55. How do I find out what rear end it is? I think that eventually I will replace the whole rear end but for now, I just need to replace the leaking seal so I can drive it.

 

Sounds like the axke shaft may be siezed to the wheel bearing at the end.

Here is a pic of some axles. In the following thread there are a bunch of pictures. You can also post up a picture of the center section (diff cover side) and we can tell you from there.


https://moparforums.com/forums/f76/a...hematics-7801/

From the sounds of it though I'd say you have either a Dana 44 or 8.25 rear axle.

 

Great. I will take a pic today and post it.

 

Removal of the thrust gears (spiders) likely wont help. If bearing not siezed it could be accumulation of grime that collected on the wet fluid if your lucky. Sounds like further inspection or serious hammering is next.
What do you mean by "acorn assembly"?

 

You guys were right, I hit the shaft end with a mallet and it moved in and I removed the c clip. The bearing seats inside a sleeve with its own seal, some one replace original bearing and seal with this set up. It's leaking between the metal sleeve insert and the tube. The seal was good. Advance auto has another replacement inser, they say is call a heavy duty bearing. The inser has a rubber ring. Can I put rtv on the sleeve even dough it has the rubber gasket? I got a feeling the tube is somewhat deform.

 

You can put a light coating on the outside of the seal (between the seal and axle tube) but thats it.

 

Here is my set up. Can you guys tell me what rear this is?

 

The assembly has lots of play at this bearing location. Can I take the whole assembly out and replace the bearing easily, or do I need a press to take the bearing off? Thanks guys for the help.

 

You'll want to measure the backlash before removing anything in the diff as you'd have to set it back up to that spec. Since the axle is an 8.25, you'll need a special spanner tool that slides in from the end and back off the backlash adjustment nuts on either side of the bearings.

Once everything is out, you'll need a clam-style bearing puller or a press to remove the old bearings. You'll need the inner race and either a press or a hammer to install the new bearings.

 

Here is a video of a 9.25 which at. 10 minutes shows what he is talking about. I made two out of large hex bolts filed to fit and welded to pipe. If you had a tool you could try and tighten it to take slack out as a temporary thing but from what you described it sounds like someone before you has patched up problems already. Not looking real good in my opinion.

 

I notice that the right side bearing nut that adjust in and out for the bearing was way out so I inserted a tool I borrow from my friend and adjusted both side bearing and this eliminated the wobbling in the ring gear assembly. Well I installed the new bearing and seal to find out that the wobble cause wear on the shaft and the passenger side axle can be moved by hand. I put oil and was leaking. So I am starting to look for a complete diff 8.25 with 3.55 ratio. Thanks a lot guys for all the info.

 

You might be able to find a shaft for that (even new) for a relatively cheap price. It might be the same as buying a used axle but swapping in another rear axle requires new u-bolts and nuts, bleeding brakes, possibly replacing brake lines, etc.

Before buying anything, think about this "how valueable is your time"?

 

Well, I got home from work and decided to take out the rear axle. Took me about an hour and one half. I figure if I can get a axle in good shape, I wont have to mess with this axle braking latter on. I hear about getting a new tube but even the gears are shew up. There is an axle in Connecticut and they are asking 275. I will look around before I make the trip.

 

Do not mean to change the subject, but since I am in the process of getting a complete differential, should I stay with the 3.55 gear ratio or should I look for a different ratio to complement the motor and trany upgrade? 318 with cam and 727 trany. Thanks

 

3.55 are great street gears. If you change the rear, you'll have to swap the front as well.

 

Sorry 78D200 I forgot to mention , this truck is a 1/4 ton and no 4x4. This truck will only see black top so I would stay with the same gear ratio if you are saying that the 3.55 will give me a quick truck. Not racing or anything like that but just to know that I have the power and speed when I need it.