To start I have had an issue with my engine idling while in gear, every since I replaced the 383 4 bbl with a 440 6 pak.

I'm running #65 metering jets in the center carburetor, the outboard carburetor on the throttle side to #82 and left #80 on the diaphragm side. Currently my power valve is 3.5.

I have good vacuum 16-17 at idle 950 rpms in neutral and a vacuum of 10 in drive idle drops to 650 rpms, but wants to stall.

My cam is the purple cam P4452993 280/280 - 60 duration 474/474 lift centerline 110.

I have spent hours adjusting the center carbs i.e. 63 jets, 64 jets, 5.5 power valve. Tuning all 3 carburetors and I get the same results.

Now I suspect that my torque converter is my problem. Does anyone know what a good match would be for my setup?

 

Call a good torque convertor builder and give them the specs of your car. ie weight, gear motor hp and torque etc. Pete at Turbo Action comes to mind.

 

WHAT are you running for initial timing?

What is the advance curve in the dist?

With that cam you should be running 15-20 or more initial advance.

 

My initial timing is 18. I haven't had time to check the advance curve yet. The distributor has not had the curve adjusted yet.

 

Your tune-up is most likely the problem. If you are not familiar with advanced tuning for the carbs (micro drillbits for idle syphon tubes and pvcr involved) , a 10" torque converter will bandaid your issue quite well.

Cheers

Peter

 

Thanks for the info. That will be my next step. If I follow the instructions that came with it, I should be OK.
Courious, what part would the advance curve have to do with the transmission wanting to stall in gear?

 

For a very good baseline timing (from MP, instructions), you should shoot for a strick locked out 35 degrees advance at 2000 rpm, and don't worry about idle timing . Then you can adjust the vacuum advance for cruising to about 52 degrees at your cruise rpm's.

I believe not enough advance at idle will bog the engine down when put in gear?

 

Again thanks!

 

10" of vacuum sounds to low to me..... Are you sure you dont have a vacuum leak after replacing the intake set up?

Just my 2 cents

 

Just finished setting the advance timing and found a leak at the rear carbs base plate. I changed the gaskets above and below the baseplate. There is still a leak, so my next thought is to put some type of sealant. Any thoughts?

 

Let me get this straight........
This is a 383 Motor ?
And you installed a 440-6 pack intake and carbs on it? Rite?

 

No it's a 440 with the factory six pack. This was originally on my GTX (4 speed). I put a 426 hemi in the GTX and put the 440 in my Challenger (it was a 383). Since the Challenger is an automatic the 440 six pack never seamed to ran right.

 

May have found the source of the problem.

I pulled the rear carb off the other day and noticed that it rocked left to right, I didn't pay much attention to that (thinking that the gasket will take up the slack).

After all of the adjusting, I'd always come up with the same results.

So I sprayed starter fluid around the base of that rear carb and found the leak.

Today, I'm taking off the carbs and putting some RTV sealant around the gaskets and putting them back on and see if this has been the problem all along.