I've been dealing with a problem in my '74 Fury. Is quite common that in cold start I got no spark, I mean I can't see spark in my spark plugs and engine doesn't start but if I mess with distributor and ignition coil wiring sometimes it start.


My car has a 360 Engine with an aftermarket ignition system, I've a HEI distributor with build-in ignition module and a Mallory ignition coild @58000V. This is the distributor: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Small-Block-...lVi7xy&vxp=mtr


I already tested voltaje at ignition coil and I've 12.1V on "run" switch position and 12.8V on "start" switch position so I don't know what can be wrong. A time ago I had a problem with my voltage regulator I don't know if this maybe made some damage in the distributor's ignition module. Is there a way to test if the ignition module is fine?


Any idea will be appreciated

 

Picture of the distibuter did not come up.....
If you have the Mopar Dist. You might have crossed the dist. connection wires? However most of the time when you do that it just run like crap....

 

^^Your link does not work.^^ For starters (no pun intended LOL) we need the brand and part number of your ignition system, distributor^^

That is the very first thing.

 

Without seeing what you have I would suggest the pickup in the dist is bador the internal HEI module

 

Sorry guys bad link, this is right: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Small-Block-...lVi7xy&vxp=mtr

Since I opened this threat the car has been running fine without problems on cold starts but the car is unreliable if I don't know when is going to have again ignition problem.

 

OK, I believe that one has two wires which hook to the coil, and a power wire coming in hooks to coil +

So, a few things

Clip a multimeter to the coil + terminal and ground

Turn the key to 'run' and observe meter. Should be very close to "same as battery"

Turn the key to "start" and while the engine is cranking, read the meter. Meter should read "same as battery" during cranking and in no case be below 10.5. Move meter to battery and again, crank, read meter. This will tell you how far battery is sagging during cranking, and give you a reference as to what coil+ should be

If the above seems OK, look for a radio suppression capacitor (condenser) on the coil. This MUST be hooked to coil + and NOT the coil NEG

If you have a tachometer, disconnect the trigger wire for awhile. Might be something wrong, there

Try to catch it when it won't fire and recheck your coil voltage readings., You may have an ignition switch or switch connector bad, or a bad connection in the firewall connector, or even out under the hood where the original ballast "was"