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Msd ignition and 1 wire alternator.

Msd ignition and 1 wire alternator.

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Old 06-09-2018, 04:12 PM
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Msd ignition and 1 wire alternator.

Trying to clean up this horrendous wiring in my dads 69 cuda. All the wiring is wrapped with hockey tape which has turned into a goopy mess

The car came with 3 coils all hooked up(No idea). We removed them and installed a Msd digital 6, coil and distributor. At the same time we installed a 1 wire alternator. Im pretty sure i know the answer but i wanna make sure before jumping the gun.

With having the full msd system am i able to remove the control module and resistor mounted on the firewall and any wiring related to those? With having a single wire alternator is there anything else i can remove? The wiring in this car is a **** show and it has new wiring doubled ontop of old that doesnt go anywhere.

Last edited by twalt87; 06-09-2018 at 04:50 PM.
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Old 06-09-2018, 05:45 PM
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Sounds like you have to re-wire it anyway.... I would Chit can it, if your not using any of the other wiring.
You need 12 volts for the MSD stuff anyway.... MSD DIG.-6 is a good unit...
Keep us posted...
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Old 06-09-2018, 06:46 PM
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So that box on the firewall doesn't run anything else? Just the old ignition system? Just making sure I can cut it all out and turf it.
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Old 06-10-2018, 06:09 AM
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If you installing MSD as you have described. you will not need the ECU or ballast from the last conversion it can go... If your not sure you have the rite part, post a picture...
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Old 06-10-2018, 01:22 PM
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I know what the ballast resistor and ecu are but not sure what this is.

I want to guess starter solenoid. But it has a modern starter with a solenoid on it. I think the original owner was using it as a junction block as the battery is in the trunk(also getting put back in engine bay)
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Old 06-10-2018, 04:05 PM
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That the starter relay...
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Old 06-10-2018, 04:23 PM
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Yea I figured it out after I posted. My to edit my post.

What have you guys done to either get rid of or improve the bulk head connectors? I know I can drill them out and hardwire the connections together as an option but I'm curious if there's a better solution?
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Old 06-10-2018, 09:17 PM
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Old 07-02-2018, 01:08 PM
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Ok more questions here. Moved the battery back to the front of the car, Most of the stuff I don't need has been removed. Currently fixing all the wires that connected to the ammeter wiring. Im following the mad article but i feel like theres a better way. Im using a dual terminal battery so my alternator and main starter wire run direct to the battery. keeping the bare minimum for wires going to the starter relay as its an eyesore. Also instead of connecting the red and black wires together for the ammeter Im going to leave the red wire disconnected on both ends, then going to run a heavier gauge wire to a sealed power junction block. Add ring connectors to all those spliced wires and put them on there. Any problem with this?

Junction block similar to this -
Amazon Amazon
I have one laying around.


I have some other wires that are melted though and im just wondering if its also common?

The wire melted is in the N slot of the middle bulkhead connector. It goes from the regulator, ballast resistor and coil(all removed/upgraded) on the engine side, in the cab it goes to the ignition switch and brake switch light. Im assuming the wire isnt needed at all anymore as ive removed the alternator reg and resistor. Its melted from the bulkhead all the way to the ignition switch.(guessing had a problem with a regulator at one point)
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Old 07-02-2018, 07:43 PM
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You could delete the amp gauge if you would like and just run a volt gauge?
Nothing wrong with a common positive stud junction, In my opinion.
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Old 07-02-2018, 08:01 PM
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It has a Gauge bank on the dash with a voltmeter. Most of the gauges don't work.

Just gotta button up the dash wiring and do the headlight relay mod and then it's onto carpet
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