Harmless

I've been looking around and have not been able to find the fix to my problem.
I have a 1970 sport satellite. We pulled the battery and hooked both grounds to engine and a clean spot on the body. After this we tried testing the head lights+brakes, starter, wipers, fan blower and we got nothing.

Already checked the wire diagram but i don't even know where to begin.

Thanks for the help.

440roadrunner

What do you have for a diagram, IE a third party reprint, or a factory service manual?

Have you figured out how to check anything?

Do you have factory, or aftermarket wiring?

YOU MUST HAVE the ammeter hooked up as it breaks ALL power to the interior of the car

Read this MAD article and examine the simplified diagram:

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...p-gauges.shtml

(came from here)
http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml

Referring to the diagram:

Main power comes off the "big stud" on the start relay, and goes through a fuse link to a connection in the bulkhead connector. This fuse link is always "a little different" than the rest of the wiring, and some may have a molded rubber "tag" which actually says fuse or some such. IT IS the only wire going from the start relay "stud" to the bulkhead

THIS IS the main and only feed into the interior of the car

THE BULKHEAD connector itself is a huge suspect, and may be burned/ corroded/ loose, etc. Pull it apart and inspect

From there, notice power (RED) goes to one side of the ammeter. Either the ammeter must be connected, or else the two ammeter wires must be connected together

The other side of the ammeter comes BACK out the bulkhead connector and goes to the big alternator output stud.

So with the battery connected, you should have power at the

start relay stud

You should be able to probe the fuse link where it enters the bulkhead connector and confirm power there

You should have power back out at the alternator stud

NOW LOOK again at the diagram, and notice the "welded splice" This is a factory welded splice, taped up in the under--dash harness, which branches off from the black ammeter wire, and feeds power to the headlight swtich, the ignition switch, and the hot buss in the fuse box, and maybe a couple of other places. If you have power at the alternator --- and nothing else, pull the cluster, access the harness, and untape the harness starting at the black ammeter connection, until you reach the splice

THEY DO fail.



If you have something LESS THAN a factory wiring diagram, I think I have a link to one somewhere here that you can download.

Post back on this thread, and we'll be glad to help you

One of my alltime favorite cars was "back then" my 70 440sixpack RR I still have the tattered old original shop manual!!! Missing a few of the front and back pages.

One of the few photos of my old 70, around '73 or 74:

https://moparforums.com/forums/f62/m...-back-day-596/

Harmless

This is the diagram i've been using

http://www.autowiringmanual.com/wp-c...-Schematic.jpg

Could my fault be at not hooking the gauge cluster up at testing?

I know this is off my topic, but whats the easiest way to get the door lock linked with the actual lock in the door? Once i put the metal piece connecting the two in, the lock wont budge.

Thanks for all the help and future help.

440roadrunner

As I said above, if you have the ammeter disconnected, there will be no power in the car. You have to bolt the two wires together to get power

The link you posted doesn't work.

You REALLY need to get yourself a shop manual

There are some downloads here, but you have to go down through the thread and look. Some of the links are broken at the top of the thread but have been fixed later on. Some of the manuals are not complete, others are

The BEST thing would be to buy a ropop paper or CD manual. Both have advantages.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...al%2C+download

Harmless

The link on the red and black give a ground read from the positive on battery with a test light. Anytime i test a positive on a switch to a ground i get nothing. Is my fuse able link bad?
Will this work?

440roadrunner

Those diagrams are far far better than nothing, but are not the best. You should be able to follow the fuse link from the starter relay to the bulkhead, and you should have power there, as well as both sides of the ammeter.