I have a 1991 Chrysler Imperial with over 198,000 miles. I had a No start after 4 months of finding & installing a new used rear axle that rusted spring mounts off. I replaced every part that would have a failure to cause the no start. After 2 months of no start. I had the Lady Blue towed to a expert? They diagnosed I improperly installed Crank Position sensor. The got it to run by wiggling the PCM connector. 2 months of looking for a connector repair kit. Found one. The weather turned bad as we all know. Today I had to run to grocery store. Every time I hit a bump or turned. Engine shut down. Got out to wiggle the wires on PCM Connector. Started right up. Yes I have a good PCM. Cost me $500. But no power going through connector. I have no idea or the ability to work on those 60 plus wire connector. I tried & not able to get the connector apart. HELP. She is a good old girl. Best winter car I have ever owned. But need some help. Ideas?

 

Well. The good thing is. You have fund the issue. Now you just have to find someone to fix the connections, by ether bending the connector tabs or replacing he connectors.. the connectors should still around to buy?
Good Luck with old Blue...

 

Hello

Would it be possible to take a picture of the PCM connector and upload it here? I'm sure there is a way to get the wires out of the connector. Their probably retained by metal tabs on the crimped wire terminals. For example:

(GM Weather Pack)


If I'm correct, you'll have to use a pick to push the tab(s) and release individual wires from the connector body. If I'm wrong, then it's a molded connector and the only fix is a replacement wiring harness.

But, before will get that far. Where is the PCM located? Under the dash? The engine compartment? If the latter, is it in a position were it could get splashed by water?

If you remove the connector, can you see it's contacts? If so, what is their condition (clean, corroded or dirty)? If they are dirty perhaps you can use a fast drying, plastic safe electrical contact cleaner.

You mentioned you had to wiggle the wires on the connector to restart the vehicle. I'm curious.
If you wiggle the PCM connector wires while the engine is running will the engine cut out or stall? If so, can you try individually wiggle each wire at a time and see which ones will kill the engine? If you think the whole PCM is losing power that should be a red or red/white wire (Pin 3 on the ECM) according to the following diagram:

Engine control schematic (3.3L & 3.8L)-1990-93 New Yorker, Dynasty, Fifth Ave. and Imperial


I assume the ECM gets ground from its mounting hardware. Make sure those fasteners aren't loose and also aren't corroded.

The idea is if you find bad wires on the PCM connector you can release them from connector, repair them and click them back in place. But, you'll have to find replacement crimp terminals like the ones used in your wiring harness or you'll to "save" the terminals by carefully removing them from the wires, cleaning them and soldering them onto your new wire. Far from ideal. Use heat shrink if the connector will allow.

 

Here is a picture of all the new PCM & Connector. Yes I can wiggle the 60 way connector & engine stumbles. I have taken off the connector & checked it. It seems to be cracked at the forward part of the connector. This is the third PCM the Chrysler has had in past year. No matter the PCM. the problem is the same. Weird? Now as I drive or sit at a traffic light. The horn start honking & interior dash lights go out. I have the dashboard open to the wiring of Headlight switch. I reach into the wires connector. wiggle a light colored wire. Dash lights come on. The Imperial has been a nightmare 2005. 3 months after I bought it. My Girlfriend at the time flipped down the vanity mirror. All electrical stopped working. Coasted into Autozone & bought a battery. Still no power but engine ran. It took over a month to find all the shorts. The suspected electrical was the vanity mirrors lights, rear window defogger, the keyless entry with theft alarm & the Turn signal multifunction switch. Has burned up 3 digital speedometers, 3 drivers window motors, The seats move all by themselves as it did last night. Thanks for help. When it quits raining or Fog?? I will check the connector again. Maybe a band aide to fix a couple wires till weather breaks. Question on another car I am working on. It has been the victim of a paranoid ***. 5 different kill switches spliced into primary hot wire for distributor. Have 2 wires that can't figure out what they were. One is a faded red or Pink to distributor from fuse block & a dark green wire to? It won't run due to the carburetor was damaged or bent that nothing lines up & will not idle. I have learned one thing over the last couple months? NEVER BUY ON EBAY or Internet. Taking the word of some one & pictures do not show the real car or item for sale.

 

One more thing on my Imperial. Last spring a Mouse made a nest in the PCM. Burned that one up. Not able to get wet as I can see. But the PCM sits right under the hood seam. Maybe getting wet from that gap from hood to fender. But Lady Blue sits all summer unless I need to goto unprotected parking. The wires to fuel pump were chewed on. The s eat up ATT wires & cable TV. Not to mention my cars too. PCM is under driver side fender next to battery.

 

Them Critters can really be a pain in the azz....
Do you know why the critters eat the wiring?
Because oil keeps the wire housing pliable... They us vegetable oil to keep the wire pliable !
Sound like you need to be a member over at the (iatn) Group...lol.. >>>>>>>
https://www.iatn.net/

Hope you got all the grounds hooked up solid.. That way you get no back feeding.

One of the places I have used for connectors... http://ecat.aptiv.com/

And dont forget to get the rite.. Tools for the job.... And also Molex.... http://www.molex.com/molex/industry/industry?industry_key=automotive_transportation&ch annel=Industries

Also: https://moparforums.com/forums/membe...puterexchange/ Might be able to help locate the connectors needed. Mite check, worth a try..