I was moving my '65 Signet convertible around in the back yard when the engine died suddenly. Actually, lost EVERYTHING: lights, horn, starter, etc. So I ended up pushing it into the corner where it now sits. I tried running extra ground wires and cables, I bypassed the ammeter, I replaced the engine compartment harness, I replaced the voltage regulator, I replaced the ignition switch, i installed another alternator I had laying around, I checked the fusible link which is not shorted, and I also verified that I have power at the ignition switch hot terminal that comes from the battery.

I am able to "hot wire" the vehicle using a jumper from the positive battery terminal to the coil and using a remote starter switch on the starter solenoid contacts on the firewall. By performing that "hot wire" procedure, it fires right up and runs well as can be. But the ignition key will not operate the starter and will not energize the coil. The horn now works, but the headlights, tail lights, and brake lights still don't. One more thing, I do have power in the wire that connects to the back of the cigar lighter.


Any suggestions? Vehicle needs a complete restoration but this is really weird regardless. Thank you.

 

Sounds like you have a bad ignition switch.

 

Do you have power to the ignition switch?

 

I found power to the ignition switch. For example, when I turn the key left (to accessory position) I find the radio fuse is energized. But I replaced the switch anyway--and unfortunately no change.

 

Check for power: Out of the switch in crank position? Yes or No?
If yes. Check to see if you have power out at the Starter Relay? Yes or No?

 

Today I replaced the wire that was used under hood for the fusible link with a true 16 gauge fusible link (I am not sure the installed wire was a plain wire or a fusible link wire because the special "tab" identifying it as a "fusible link" was nowhere to be found). At the same time, I replaced the headlamp switch (the ignition switch was already changed last week). Two weeks ago, I replaced the under hood wiring set with a set I purchased on EBay some time ago as a spare (it did NOT include the harness for the front headlamps/turn signals) and installed an NOS factory style voltage regulator (not electronic). I changed the alternator with one that had been on the shelf for years (the aluminum case was kind of crusty). I removed the dash and left it out to see if any wires were shorting on the dash frame. I could find no wiring shorts or bare wires. I left the dash out (on the kitchen table) and turned the key to "on" and found I had about 5 volts on the positive side of the coil. I primed the carb and turned the key and the motor started and ran fine.

I checked battery voltage at idle and it measured 12.4 volts. I revved the engine to a fast idle and the voltage began to rise and fall between 13 and 14 volts. Back down to idle and the voltage dropped again to 12.4 volts. So it appears that somewhere along the way I repaired the fault. My best guess is that it had something to do with the fusible link connection.

In the photo, the wire on the bottom is the wire I found installed on the vehicle when the problem began. The other two are fusible links in 14 gauge and 16 gauge versions (one of which I installed as mentioned above).

 

👍

 

Good Work.... I had a feeling we was going to trace this back to the fuseable link or the bulkhead connection !!!!
Glad you found it and got it running again... Cheers
Whats next on the To-Do-List ?

 

While it was stalled/parked out of commission, I now find that all the brake fluid had leaked out from somewhere, so a brake overhaul is next. Since I have too many projects going on right now to even begin to think about a full restoration (this convertible is my latest purchase) It will eventually be sold because the rust is too extensive and I don't weld. Thanks for asking.

 

A rusty convertible, never…😎

 

lol

 

Fusible links do not short when bad, they open. It is supposed to be a short when it's working. It is a fuse.

Tim