Epoxy primer makes no more overspray than a rattle can. Also rattle can primer (solvent based) never totally "sets", thus creating paint issues later. Epoxy primer is a chemical reaction and when dry it is stable and permanent. Save the rustoleum for the patio furniture. If you want to use a rattle can type sprayer, they make these with a small glass jar, so that you can use good quality automotive grade products. Just mix your paint and pour it in the jar, and start spraying.



http://www.preval.com

 

I have one of those and it's still in the box...I used one when I painted the front hood latch support...I used that same primer on it and it sill looks good...thanks to your suggestion I did not paint today and will go by the PPG store in the morning to see what they have to offer...Thanks for your reply Eric

 

I will visit my PPG dealer in the morning to see what they have to offer as epoxy primer...Crazy4carz...had a good suggestion to use epoxy primer instead of the rattle can rust-oleum primer that I was going to use ...I did however get it all taped up and ready to go...and the passenger fender is moved over to correct the gap...the piece of seam sealer was holding the thing together...it would not budge until I scrapped it off..







And here it is all taped up and ready to go

 

I called my PPG rep Donna today....they have two part epoxy paint in many diffent color combinations....but my first choice is this two part spray can epoxy primer made in Germany and availible at Eastwood...my only question to them will be about the color...looks white on the cap...I want a white primer...if the paint gets scratched or a chip occurs you will see white underneath it..



Spray Max Epoxy Primer aerosol

Item #50771 Z
In Stock - Ready to Ship Today
Only $19.99


2K patented aerosol allows you to paint with a two component paint with no mixing! Spray Max's innovative nozzle and valve technology, combined with its two internal chambers ensure the right ratio is mixed every time. Sprays like a gun, broader spray pattern than conventional aerosols and no mess to clean up. You'll get professional results from an aerosol. Pot life 4 days. 2k rust cure primer in buff has excellent adhesion and corrosion. Can be applied over new and rusty surfaces. Can overcoat with any 1k/2k system. 14.1 oz net weight. Made in Germany

 

I found it cheaper on another site which ships from IL....they use FedEx ground so two cans should be here Friday morning..the best paint day is going to be Friday or Saturday...both are going to be in the mid-sixties..the color is what you see on the cap...offwhite sorta biege..that will work for me

 

I knew that car looked familiar seen it over at FABO hahaha

 

Got this left over piece of structure at work...cut off and grinded off some extra..now imagine it with rolling casters and bolted to the front of the 5 MPH shocks...this will allow me to roll the car around when the K Member is removed for painting..I have to buy some casters and mount them tomorrow before I take it home..

 

I got my new front spoiler today....$214.00 dollars to the door....going to wet sand it and prime it then paint it.....this one will go on my car and the other in the attic as a spare...as expalined to others..if something happens to this car I like to have spare parts...never know when a board on the road would hit the spoiler and destroy it......sorry but that's the way I think...

 

I agree I love to have spare parts. Sometimes so many that I can never find them when I need them. Mike

 

Not a whole lot done last night

I brought home my roll-about contraption...I did not want to buy casters until I knew it was going to work...I lightly bolted up the front bumper shocks and then saw I would have to through bolt it to them going through the square tubing...that will only make it a stronger attachment...yesterday I added the blue piece of metal at the bottom to serve as a footing to attach the casters....

 

Those bumper mounts are not that tough. I would find someplace else to mount that. Also put something inside the square tubing or else when you tighten it, it will crush. Or, when it gets a lateral load it will crush and fold under. Why do you have to move it while the Kframe is out? Just use jack stands. And why is the Kframe coming out anyway? Detailing? Nah.

 

Do you remember the slots in the bumper?..My jack in the trunk fits in the slot to jack up the car...the bumper and bumper back up plate both bolt to those...I have round sleeves to put around the bolts...it's coming out for blasting and rebuild..I want to be able to move the car around when painting and such...remember this is a two car garage not a shop.

 

No Casters yet...
Went to two places today searching for casters that have a rating of at least 750 pounds no luck yet...I found an empty box that were susposed to have some at 900 pounds...back on the search tomorrow...

Opened some presents when I got home....first a set of parking light lenses..40 bucks off of e-bay and made in Taiwon...I will not put these on unless paint is done or one gets damaged..





got my brake lines from Inline Tube...the ones from the master cylinder to the proportional valve are verified....the one from the proportional valve to the driver's front wheel is verified...the other long one to the passenger side is not verified at this time..75 bucks plus shipping





Then I opened the decal kit from Pheonix Graphics...I am not going to slam them at this time but the color pattern is reversed...mine are silver outlined in red on the bottom and the RT symbols are red outlined in silver..I also thought I would have left over decals because one was for the super pak and the other was for the stripes across the trunk lid? A call to them for sure in the morning...

 

Thanks to Justin with Phoenix Graphix....they are making a new set for me today...

 

Local caster search was a no go
Went e-baying and found the following...I don't need all four right now but they may come to another use someday....



http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Colson-Caste...item45f61389d8

 

Last thing to report for today
Got my epoxy primer today....2 cans 40.00 plus bucks to get them to the door...67 tomorrow and 68 on Saturday with rain chance starting at 6:00 PM...I will be done before then and I am bringing home a halon lite set from work to put some heat on it..

You take that red plug out of the cap...shake the can for 2 minutes...flip it upside down...stick the plug in the bottom of the can and shake for another two minutes...the spray pattern is adjustable also...leave it up to the Germans...

 

Cool deal. Curious on how well it works.

 

Even though they may be the wrong color combination the other set is on it's way..I got an e-mail from Justin with Pheonix Graphix with a tracking number also...I also found these pics on line of the white Aspen with the faotory looking color scheme oh well the saga continues...now I will have two sets to choose from

 

Taped, sanded and boxed up..
I sanded some spots....taped up a little more areas and then cardboarded up some areas..when completed I wiped it down with some lacquer thinner...tomorrow is primer day...Sunday is back to the paint booth for some more painting..it will be rainy and cold..

 

Back in white....sort of
Backed out the 440 Dart....layed down two passes of primer and that stuff is great...it does spray like a detail gravity feed gun and dries fast...Eastwood said it was grey...Auto Body Toolmart is where I got it from and they were right...biege....or off white...anyways I have four more things to prime today before the rain..





lights baking it....

 

Tape off
Only had enough of the epoxy primer left in the first can to spray the engine compartment braces...I then took the tape off the front end...looks nice again...I took a pic of the driver's side R/T symbol and they put it on slanted at an angle..I opened the truck and found peeled off paint where the other decal use to run accross the trunk lid...

 

 

very nice, wish i had a decent place to paint my stuff

 

I am very lucky...I have a car paint booth at our other location across the street..If I felt more confident I would paint my own cars..I suck at body work though

 

Here's kinda what the valve covers will look like with the white wire separators on them...I am going to wrinkle coat the breather to match the air cleaner...I call it a little old school mixed in with a little new school..

 

Got wheels and hood insulation
Got my heavy duty casters in the mail today and they are heavy duty....ball bearing swivels and wheels with grease fittings...a breeze to attach....two holes on each one already matched up to holes on the base plate....bolted them down and then drilled four holes and was done....



bolted the bumper shocks back on and lined up my roller unit to them..I marked the holes to drill through but will do that tomorrow..I have to cut about 1/4" off each of the hollow tube spacers I got to fit into the square tubing to keep it from crushing when I tighten the bolts..





got me e-bay hood insulation in today..it won't come out of the package for a couple of months...made by REM...

 

It the hood insulation molded? I doubt it is by looking at the package. I think you will be disappointed with it if isn`t molded as most are just a flat piece of insulation.

 

That's all you can get for these cars...I am told that even from the factory thery were not molded...I have an M body also and it's hood insulation is a flat peice of insulation from the factory...now jump back to 1976 and prior....all day long they had molded and you can get re-popped molded..If I don't like it I pull several molding clips out and remove it...

 

Drilled the holes and got it lightly mounted on there tonight...used a piece of coat hanger to lower the round spacers down to the holes..then stabbed the bolts through..not much more until this weekend...

 

I got the other set of decals last night and am posting some pictures