I've replaced the starter and the solenoid and still no click or turn over or anything. What else can I try. Please any suggestions will be appreciated (198 slant 6, 74 Plymouth valiant)

 

Please do not "throw parts" at a problem. Learn to troubleshoot. Get a shop manual if you don't have one. Get a test light and multimeter

You may have the dreaded seat belt interlock relay. Look on the firewall in the engine bay for a relay with a reset button. If you find it, pull the yellow/ yellow/ tracer wires and hook them together.

If this does not fix the problem, See if either "push on" terminal of the starter relay has power with the key twisted in the "start" position.

If they BOTH have power, the neutral safety switch or wiring is not grounding in park or neutral.

 

Welcome!

Do you have power going where it needs to?

 

Welcome to the forum. Be sure to check out the Mopar of the Month contest.
Listen to 440roadrunner. He is leading to down the right path!!!!!

 

welcome to the forum

 

I have power going to where it needs to be I think, I didn't know this old car has a neutral safety switch. I'll look again though. I still don't get any action from the parts I installed. Meaning when I turn the key it's very silent.

 

Looked and found a wire (3) coming out if the transmission. Looked at it cleaned it off and still got nothing.

 

'

You should have a starter relay on the cowl which looks very similar to the photo below. First thing to do is jumper across the two large exposed terminals and see if the starter cranks. If so, good so far.

Next, see if the ignition switch/ neutral safety circuit is working. This is the two "push on" terminals, at the top in this photo. Leave the wires in place and "back probe" them with meter or light. See if either or both is hot with the key twisted to "start."

If BOTH terminals show power, the neutral safety switch is not grounding in park or neutral, so bad wiring to the switch, bad switch, or misaligned transmission linkage.

Remove both wires from the two push on terminals of the relay, and probe the two wires one at a time. Find out which one is "hot" with the key in "start." Hook that wire back up to the relay. It can go to EITHER of the two push-on terminals.

Now take a clip lead and ground the other relay push-on terminal, and see if the engine cranks, using the key. If so, this confirms you have a safety switch problem.

If not, re--confirm that the hooked up wire is "hot" in start. If so, you have a bad relay.





NOW if NEITHER of the two push on terminals show voltage with key in "Start" you MAY HAVE the seat belt interlock system. Look on the cowling in the engine bay for a relay with a reset button. If you find one, it should have two yellow/ yellow/ tracer wires. cut/ remove these wires and splice them together. This bypasses the seat belt interlock system.

Here:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...ad.php?t=14304

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...p?p=1969624169

 

Mr 440, this is what I tried and discovered. I hooked up a ground wire from the battery to the ground on the solenoid and then I touched a wire from the battery to the ignition terminal on the solenoid. The starter cranked, then I removed the ground wire from the battery and retried my test, nothing happened. So my hypothesis is this. The solenoid has no ground going to it. And even after that my other hypothesis is that there is something between the key to the solenoid is faulty. So..... We shall see in the A.M. But I liked all your info, dang you gots go info. thank you do much, I'm gonna try your tests when I get off work.

 

I assume you mean that you grounded one of the push--on terminals If so, what you are calling the solenoid is the relay which I posted a photo of? This is the STARTER RELAY, not the solenoid

If so, this would be considered "normal" so the relay is GOOD

Now LEAVE the ground connected and first connect one, then the other of the original wires to the remaining terminal and try the key. One of them should result in the engine cranking.

IF NOT check for the seat belt relay I mentioned

Your circuit path is from the ignition switch --- through the bulkhead connector -- to the seat belt relay (if present) and to the starter relay.

 

does 440roadrunner just keep solenoids laying around just to take pics? LOL i am on 5 different forums and 440roadrunner gives the best info. and he can take a great pic.

 

Ok I have no power going to the slanted terminal (in your pic) of the starter relay. I touch the hot wire from the battery and the starter will engage. I think it may have something to do with the (yellow) wire that goes to the starter relay. I think either something from the steering column to the switch is no bueno

 

After a ton of trouble shooting I concluded that the ignition switch was bad. I replaced it and no the car cranks over but will not fire up. Till tomorrow ladies and germs thank you mr 440 you where a huge help

 

is the brown wire powered at the ballast when cranking it ?
maybe there is a connection problem in the firewall / bulkhead plug

 

Yes, see the dark blue "ignition run" or IGN1 goes dead during crank. The only wire supplying power to the ignition for starting is the bypass circuit which is the brown. It goes directly from the IGN switch, through the bulkhead connector, to the coil+ side of the coil


LOL No I dont usually take photos, most of what I post I Google and find on the internet. That photo of a Mopar relay has been posted a number of places, so I "stole" it. Many of my electrical diagrams are posted from my own 67 manual, and the ones posted at MyMopar and at FABO, but I also have a 70, 74, and other manuals which I DO occasionally take shots of with my camera.

I've got way too much into photograpy gear, A PAIR of Canon 7D's, formerly (still have) a pair of 40D's and some GREAT lenses.

Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM

Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM

Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM






Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L






An old beat up pre--digital

Canon EF 300mm f/2.8L

Has no IS, like this newer one: Shown here without the huge lens hood. Mine was well over 5 grand new, 20 years ago or so when it was sold.






Round that all out with a Tamron SP 1.4 converter, and a Canon 2x extender/ converter


Canon EF 2.0X III Telephoto Extender








My wide angle is a Sig 12-24:
Sigma 12-24mm f/4.5-5.6 EX DG IF HSM Aspherical Ultra Wide Angle







You can see I have way WAY too much into this, and with my arthritis, cannot hike around anymore.




I've also converted a few lenses, here's one of my pet projects: Bought two different Sig 600mm mirror lenses and converted one to Canon EF mount, the other to M42 "screw" mount:


http://forum.manualfocus.org/viewtopic.php?id=11381


http://forum.manualfocus.org/viewtopic.php?id=11415


The finished lenses. ON the left, a Sig 600mm converted to Canon EF mount, here I believe on my 40D. In the center a great lens, a Tamron SP Adaptall-2 500 mm mirror, and on the right, a different Sig 600mm, this one converted to M42 screw mount (Pentax) and using an adapter ring from there it can also be mounted to Canon






My favorite was converting an old manual focus Canon FL19mm to the more modern Canon EF mount:


http://forum.manualfocus.org//viewtopic.php?id=16902


The converted lens:









A sunset taken with this old lens:





I do like to play with old manual focus lenses


Here's a fireworks shot, taken with a Tamron SP 17mm, again an Adaptall--2 lens


This shot was taken some time ago, before I got the 40D(s). I had my old XT, or 350D then

 

If your anxious to get it started you could hot wire it.

My guess is the firewall connector, have a read at this:

http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html

 

198 slant 6. I need to prime the oil pump, need suggestions please thank you.