Bergmann54

So I put in a new edlebrock manifold onto my buddys duster. After the complete installation and putting the motor back together we discovered that it doesn't like to run now. Wondering if maybe when I put the distributer back on that the wires could be crossed. However I numbered them and they are exactly where they where before. Like I said in the title im stumped....

this is the new part that we installed on the 318
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-75763/

RacerHog

Re-Dead time the motor......

pull # 1 plug...... Run up on compression....... Set Balancer to 0.....
Pull the cap and see if the dist. rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire....
Recheck the firing order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Going clock wise...



Oh..Ya...Welcome to the site......

Coronet 500

Check wires to coil and ballast resistor, check voltage too.

Bergmann54

Well fellows I have the firing order correct and now I think I did something to the carburetor. she starts now, but dies out almost immediately

Bergmann54

Yep same carb. summit 4 barrel. new hedders as well but it was running fine great with those until the new manifold

Mr.Duster

What size carb are you running? Did you touch any of the idle screws, mixture screws etc.

Bergmann54

well I got it to idle now I didn't make any adjustments on the carb itself. but I did now, im giving it less gas. but if I give it any throttle at all it kills itself

Bergmann54

the carb is a 750

Bergmann54

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-m08750ms That's the carb that's in it.

Coronet 500

If you have it starting I'm hoping it is just a fuel delivery problem and only need to fill the fuel bowls completely.

That carb is far too big for a 318 and that manifold is too much unless you have cam and heads at the highest level of performace in the 6500-7500rpm range.

Archer

B =

The carb s a bit big for an otherwise stock 318, but it should still run, but boggy at best. Popping the manual secondaries may indeed kill the engine. Typically 600 vac secondary would be about the max and if stock, less is more.

Just for giggles, check for vacuum leaks, around / on the carb AND the manifold to head matting surfaces.

Archer

Mr.Duster

yeah X2 on what archer an coronet 500 said. Its a little bit to big for 318 unless you did some more work to it. Id say 500-600cfm maybe would be good if u want to go with a 4 barrel. I run a 650 holley spread bore on my 340.

TVLynn

I'm guessing you had a 2bbl ? SO you have a low compression motor with small 2bbl heads/. A manifold / carb combo that is miss matched to you engine and is going to need some work to make it run..
Start with checking for vacuum leaks DO you have a vacuum gauge ? what is the idle reading ?
What do the plugs look like ?? Stock motor ? Probably too rich ? disconnect the vacuum advance and plug it for now. and set the timing around 10-12 btdcThen start work on the carb

Bergmann54

we got the new 650 edelbrock 4 barrel. its now come down to the timing of the motor. I went and spoke to an older guy up at auto zone he knows what hes doing. The only problem is ive never set the time on an older style motor like this. So Id like to give that a shot to see what happens. Do you all know how to explain the timing of the 318?

YellowThumper

You have glossed over the many posts about the potential vacuum leaks. This will cause all the problems you have described. You will end up overcompensating the enrichment on the carb.

318 2V intake ports are significantly shorter than the other 4V heads. The 318 intake/head casting stops where where the larger port openings start. I learned this many years ago doing a swap like you.

No vacuum gauge? I have used light sprays of WD-40 around all the ports and also around the base of the carburator. The engine idle will change when you get to a leaking area.

Simple check can save lots of headaches bonus is that it costs next to nothing.