Hey guys im stumped here. I'm trying to get my 71 satellite running again. It's electrical I think. Btw this satellite has the 340 v8 in it and has the electronic distributor guts so no points. I can't get this thing to run. It's getting fuel. But it won't spark at the coil. It will spark once in awhile and some times it will spark right when I hit the key or right when I let off the key. I have replaced the voltage regulator, ignition module, rotor, distributor cap, plugs, plug wires, new battery, ballace, coil, and I swapped out the whole steering column with my parts car so I could use the good ignition, I did the whole column so I didn't have to mess with doing the ignition. Also I checked the balance connections, all 3 of the connections that go into the balance were like 11.5 volts but one of them was 5.4 volts and didn't go up when I cranked it. So I'm stumped. Also I have to add I had this thing running and idling great yesterday then after it not running for a few hours it wouldn't start or even spark. So what's wrong? Thanks and sorry for the long read.

 

If it ran and now doesn't with no other changes I would start tracing wires. Could be a loose connection/crappy splice somewhere in the engine harness. Take your meter and go down the line, got voltage at point 'a' but not at point 'b' your broken connection is between them. Good luck, let me know what you find.

 

You must understand how Mopar ignition switch works. There are THREE separate switches come into play

1--"ignition run" or "IGN1" This is traditionally blue, comes through the bulkhead connector, and supplies the "switch side" of the ballast, the regulator "I" terminal, the alternator blue field wire, and in some cars a couple of other things, like the electric choke heater if used.

To check, put the key in 'run' put your voltmeter on the blue alternator field connection, and your other probe on battery positive. You should read very little voltage, less than .3V (three tenths of a volt.) For a double check, remove the probe from battery positive and ground to the engine. You should now read "same as" battery voltage.

2--"bypass" or "IGN2" traditionally brown, this comes through the bulkhead and goes to the ballast terminal which in turn goes to the coil + terminal.

To check, put your meter on the coil + wire to ground and crank the engine USING THE KEY. You should read AT LEAST 10 volts or higher. move the ground probe to battery positive and check again. You should read less than .3V (three tenths) while cranking.

Higher readings than 3 tenths indicate high voltage DROP in the harness. This is usually bad connections at the bulkhead connector, the ignition switch connector, sometimes a bad switch, occasionally bad ammeter or ammeter connections, and very rarely, the "welded splice" in the under dash harness in the black ammeter wire
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IT IS IMPORTANT to understand that when the key is in "start" the "ignition run" voltage is "dead" so the brown bypass wire is the ONLY ignition source.

You can run a quick test by running a clip lead from the coil+ to a battery source and check the spark. Don't leave this hooked up for long, as this bypasses the ballast.

One end of the ballast is jumpered together. This should be the two terminals which are hooked to the ignition switch.

Also, most all? replacement ECUs nowadays are what is called "4 pin" The older so called "5 pin" boxes MUST use a 4 pin ballast resistor

A newer "4 pin" ECU CAN use either a 4 or 2 pin ballast. It's simply that a 4 pin ballast with a 4 pin does not function so far as the second half of the resistor

CHECK your distributor reluctor gap with a .008" (inches not metric) brass feeler available from O'Reallys

 

to test the distributor. get an analog meter. set it to the lowest ACV setting. put the meter wires into the two wires from the distributor, order not important. spin the distributor. if the distributor is good the needle will move a little. not much just a little.

 

I'll try all that. Also this morning I cranked it over a few times and it started. Now it won't start again. So I'll startbtracing wires and lookingaround with my meter. Thanks guys

 

I have seen a poor ground between the ECU and the body cause this issue.

 

Is the ecu the black box on the firewall? I'm only getting 5 cranking volts going into the distributor. If the ecu is the black box on the firewall I have it grounded great. Thanx

 

iam not sure it should have 5 V going to the dist. 440roadrunner can answer that Q

 

Yep I'm getting 5 cranking volts into the pickup coil wire going into the distributor. And theres power to the positive side of the distributor

 

if the wiring is stock you shouldnt have 5 v at the dist. check put this diagrams. one is the 5 pin, one is 4 pin box. http://www.allpar.com/fix/electronic-ignition.html i dont want to sound like know it all. but STOCK, STOCK, STOCK , STOCK.

 

Yea it has 5 volts going into the pickup coil plug in the distributor

 

ok i might be wrong. my tests was at hand spinning speed. at a differnt speed you might get a diff volt. my new idea. 5 volt might be fine if its voltage made by the dist spinning dist. but voltage should not be going into the dist from the elect system. I THINK. 440roadrunner HELP.

 

Maybe I just need that pickup coil. i just wanna hear this thing run again dangit. This is annoying

 

You should have more voltage while cranking, that's the whole idea of bypassing the ballast resistor. Your description of catching when the key is moved looks like a switch but could be a bad IGN2 wire.

What I would do is take the large wire to the starter off and try your voltage test again with key at start.

 

Ok just threw in a new distributor, no luck there either. And I wasn't by passing the ballice I just put the end of my red probe into the connector that goes into the pickup and got 5v. Does the voltage regulator need grounded? Or the ballice?

 

Woohoo!! Tweaked the gap and the timing on the distributor and she goes like a dream. Also sparks great now. I'm going to set the timing tomorrow with my timing light, it runs good but would you guys recommend me clean the carb after it's been sitting for 20 years? Runs good but maybe could be better. What else should I do to get it running great?

 

You Sir have just earned a non-transferable, non-refundable ATTABOY.

Good work. Carb rebuild is a good idea, taking for a test before disassembly can show any problems.

But seriously, are you nuts, you just got her running, DRIVE IT BABY. Woo Hoo!

 

Haha thanks man but I can't drive her yet the master cylinder is bad, the cars been sittin for 20 years