Electrical Problems
#1
Electrical Problems
I just bought a 1966 Dodge Charger, and it runs great, but recently, when I try to start it, it doesn't even turn over, the electrical inside and out is working, I was wondering of anyone had a similar problem.
#2
Check for battery voltage at the large wire on the starter (hot all the time)and voltage at the small wire when the key is turned to the start position..Jump the two termanels on the starter if it turn over then the problem is between the starter and switch. Probably a fusible link or connection. But if it doesn't turn over the starter is bad and will have to be replaced...Bill
#4
Somewhere in the engine bay you have the starter relay, something like this:
The great big stud is a junction point for the battery cable and ONE of the relay contacts
The other big exposed "square" terminal is the second relay contact and goes to the starter solenoid
Jam a screwdriver between those two, making sure that the trans is in park/ neutral. If the engine turns over, you either have a bad relay, or problems in the wiring or neutral safety switch IF it's an automatic. (You did not say!!!)
If it does not crank post back "what it does." You could have a bad starter, a bad wire from the relay to the starter, dirty battery clamps, bad cables, or a bad / dead battery
Now if the starter DOES crank, Try holding the key to "start" while moving the shift lever, and move it from park to neutral and wiggle the lever. If you get a click or response, or crank, either the neutral safety switch has a poor connection, is going bad, or the linkage is out of adjustment.
If wiggling the shifter provides no response, get yourself a multimeter, a 12V test lamp, and some clip leads. You should already have 'em
On the relay, the two "push on" terminals are the relay coil. It matters not which wire goes to which terminal
One should come from the relay and go into the bulkhead. This is the "start" wire coming from the IGN switch. The other wire goes down the firewall down over the top of the trans, and to the neutral safety switch (automatic)
PROBE the one going to the trans with your light. Don't unhook either wire from the relay. Twist the key to start. If you get a light ===bad neutral switch or bad wiring/ connections between relay and switch, or shift linkage out of adjustment
If no light, move your light probe to the start wire. Twist the key. If you get a light, you might have a dead relay.
Remove the quick connect from the relay which goes down to the neutral switch. Hook a clip lead to that relay terminal and ground it. IF the engine does not crank,
recheck that you have power "in start" at the other quick connect --the start wire.
If you have power there, but no relay action, bad relay.
IF the relay clicks, but nothing at the starter, hook you light to the "square" terminal and twist key to "start." If relay clicks, but nothing at starter and no light---bad relay
If you get a light at the square terminal but no starter, either the wire from that terminal to the starter is bad, or the battery cable to the starter is bad, or bad starter.
I
The great big stud is a junction point for the battery cable and ONE of the relay contacts
The other big exposed "square" terminal is the second relay contact and goes to the starter solenoid
Jam a screwdriver between those two, making sure that the trans is in park/ neutral. If the engine turns over, you either have a bad relay, or problems in the wiring or neutral safety switch IF it's an automatic. (You did not say!!!)
If it does not crank post back "what it does." You could have a bad starter, a bad wire from the relay to the starter, dirty battery clamps, bad cables, or a bad / dead battery
Now if the starter DOES crank, Try holding the key to "start" while moving the shift lever, and move it from park to neutral and wiggle the lever. If you get a click or response, or crank, either the neutral safety switch has a poor connection, is going bad, or the linkage is out of adjustment.
If wiggling the shifter provides no response, get yourself a multimeter, a 12V test lamp, and some clip leads. You should already have 'em
On the relay, the two "push on" terminals are the relay coil. It matters not which wire goes to which terminal
One should come from the relay and go into the bulkhead. This is the "start" wire coming from the IGN switch. The other wire goes down the firewall down over the top of the trans, and to the neutral safety switch (automatic)
PROBE the one going to the trans with your light. Don't unhook either wire from the relay. Twist the key to start. If you get a light ===bad neutral switch or bad wiring/ connections between relay and switch, or shift linkage out of adjustment
If no light, move your light probe to the start wire. Twist the key. If you get a light, you might have a dead relay.
Remove the quick connect from the relay which goes down to the neutral switch. Hook a clip lead to that relay terminal and ground it. IF the engine does not crank,
recheck that you have power "in start" at the other quick connect --the start wire.
If you have power there, but no relay action, bad relay.
IF the relay clicks, but nothing at the starter, hook you light to the "square" terminal and twist key to "start." If relay clicks, but nothing at starter and no light---bad relay
If you get a light at the square terminal but no starter, either the wire from that terminal to the starter is bad, or the battery cable to the starter is bad, or bad starter.
I
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mytracy
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04-24-2011 11:08 PM