Engine - stock 1969 318

I was swapping out my points with a new distributor and managed to loose my timing marks. But now when I crank it around (by hand) to 5' BTDC on the compression stroke, the rotor points to the #7 plug. Do I just make this my #1 even though it points to #7 plug.
Everything I find online doesnt really touch on this

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

The possibilities are:

1--You are not actually on the (number 1 cylinder) compression stroke, you just think you are

2--Due to either the harmonic balancer slipping or wrong parts on the car, the timing marks are incorrect

3--The new distributor drive tang is not indexed to the rotor in the same place as the original.

Now, every time the timing mark comes up, that is, you rotate one crank revolution at a time, the no1 piston comes up every other crank revolution. I don't know your experience, so "just checking."

 

Check here: https://moparforums.com/forums/f10/t...problem-13776/

 

This is my first distributor install, but I know for sure I am on the compression stroke. So it must be the drive tang is not in the same place. Does that mean I can set the #1 on the cap wherever the rotor is, as long as im at TDC. Thanks

 

When the crank is on top dead center the distributor should face forward or to the rear #1 or #6 Look down in the engine at the oil pump/dist. drive the slot should face straight forward your drive might be a tooth or two off. See Coronet 500 timing problem link. #3 440 Roadrunner post.This should walk you right through your problem.

 

Yes. Please tell me how you know you are on the compression stroke.

 

I would crank it around by hand with a cork in the spark plug hole and I can here air squeaking out every other revolution. Anyway I compare the new one to the old one and sure enough the rotors were pointing in different directions relative to the drive notch. I was indeed on the #1 just the rotor was off. I got it fired and timed ok. Thanks a lot.

 

Very good. I learned at an early age how to time engines, but I actually could do so before I learned the "proper way." For quite awhile, I never bothered with the "proper" distributor cap plug hole. Back in those days (late 60's) I had a 283, 327 Chev. I'd just jam the dist in, bring up the timing marks, and then plug no1 in wherever the rotor pointed.

One day I pulled into a service station, back when they actually "serviced" your car, and the attendant and I were checking the oil. He glanced at the engine and said, "how does this run, it's out of time??" Told me my plug wires were in the wrong place it COULD NOT RUN right!!!!


Now there ARE engines that "matter." These are some industrial 2 and 4 cyl, as well as the "odd/ even" fire V6 mess. Some engines pair 2 cylinders closer together and the next two further apart, so if you get the wires "off one" they will not run correctly "Rotor phasing."

 

I think mopars are the easiest car to time there is only 2 ways the dist. will go in unlike chevy and ford. So I dont understand the problem here

 

The amount of "ways" you stick the dist in has nothing to do with how easy or difficult, as my post above was intended to illustrate. Unless the engine is one of the V6 "problem children" you can toss the distributor in "any old way" and in the case of Mopars, toss the drive gear/ shaft in "any old way" and still easily time the engine.

As the OP stated, the rotor is indexed differently on the two distributors he has, which threw him off for a bit.

 

There are fellas who have the pump drive come up and move a tooth or two and have trouble starting their engine, by accident or just not knowing. There have been a few times 440 has helped these guys out with going back to the basics.

Everyone needs a little help now and then.

 

All I was trying to say is that you gave him step by step instructions on how it is done. I just dont understand why people dont get the instrution first bafore attempting to do something. I AM all for helping anyone out. But they need to pay attention and listen to what is being said. Im not dis ing anyone here... More then likely his oil pump drive is a few teeth off which is discussed in Coronet500s link :Timing Problem

 

I didn't hear any disrespect at all. Your right pro about the listening part. I've read many times 440 trying to help someone with a charging problem after buying a new alt. After a step by step the guy comes back and says he bought another alt. and still has the same problem, must drive him nuts. It's almost comical, and painful to watch.

 

The way I took this is that he removed the old dist, and the new one was different. This IS a documented difference. I actually have enough junker distributors now, that I do have some that are indexed differently. I, frankly, don't pay much attention to these kinds of things, I just drop the thing in and deal with it.

 

The key is if it is on top dead center on the #1 cylinder than the rotor needs to point to the #1 plug no matter how that is achieved. Right? I think someone should help this poor guy out. Ill go to his house and show him how its done spometimes you need to see the process to understand it.

 

i have never had this type of trouble i think everyone is making it worse
i set my 0 mark on the harmonic balancer
now i got a 50 50 chance of hitting it right the first time if not i pop it slightly enough to spin it 180 no problems
as long as the rotor is pointing toward #1 cylinder your close on your initial timing mark if your 180 off you can pop and spin

 

Just in case you guys missed it, I posted (way before the arguing), that I got it fired up ok. (all this about I didnt follow instruction, and its so easy)

For the record, I did plenty of research before I began this install, as it didnt come with instruction, and I have no books on the matter. Its not really that difficult of a install, especially on a SB Mopar.

440RR and Coronet and some others were very helpful, and I figured out what was wrong with your help because I DID follow your instruction.

The problem was the distributors were indexed differently, usually I compare parts beforehand but it slipped by me. The oil pump drive was pointing in the right direction, the rotor was not when I stab it in. Everywhere I look on this topic, it is said THE ROTOR MUST POINT AT #1 SPARK PLUG, as if it was gospel. Mine would not line up this way, that why I was concerned. I try not to create more problem when Im fixing one.

Thanks

 

missed your post that's great that you got it running
how does it work?

 

Good thanks, now on to the intake carb.