Truck Stalls
Truck Stalls
I can start my truck (318) fires up just fine put it and drive and go about 20 feet and it dies and is hard to start but does start again. It does this weather i start it and and go straight into drive or if i let it warm up for 20 mins.
May be related but I have to be gentel with the gas pedal or it dies also have to ease into the gas it did this for all 4 seasons but the dieing thing is new.
May be related but I have to be gentel with the gas pedal or it dies also have to ease into the gas it did this for all 4 seasons but the dieing thing is new.
Likely the accelerator pump in the carb. With the engine off and with the smallest of pedal movement there should be two streams of gas shoot into the venturis which can be seen looking into the throat of the carb, choke plate open. With a fast strong opening of the throttles a large stream should squirt out, watch it doesn't splash in your eyes.
You may be able to buy the pump plunger only and replace as the cup (seal) may dry out and shrink. A complete rebuild would be the best way to go with this sitting for a time as varnishes will form and block small passages in the carb. Even if you have never rebuilt a carb the 2 barrels are very easy to do, and a great place to start and learn.
You may be able to buy the pump plunger only and replace as the cup (seal) may dry out and shrink. A complete rebuild would be the best way to go with this sitting for a time as varnishes will form and block small passages in the carb. Even if you have never rebuilt a carb the 2 barrels are very easy to do, and a great place to start and learn.
The next thing to check is your ignition timing with a timing light.
Your initial timing without vacuum canister hooked to carb (plug vacuum hose with golf tee).
Next is to see if vacuum advance is working, how much at idle and when throttle opened slowly.
Your initial timing without vacuum canister hooked to carb (plug vacuum hose with golf tee).
Next is to see if vacuum advance is working, how much at idle and when throttle opened slowly.
Both good purchases, don't spend alot on a vacuum gauge, buy a quality light. Personally I don't like the dial back ones.
Be sure to check this thread as there will be others coming in I'm sure.
Oh my, I just noticed this is my 1,000th post in just about three years. Man I thought this one should have cured the common cold or turned a slant 6 into a Hemi.
Be sure to check this thread as there will be others coming in I'm sure.
Oh my, I just noticed this is my 1,000th post in just about three years. Man I thought this one should have cured the common cold or turned a slant 6 into a Hemi.
Ok got the vacum gauge and timing light. Will be hooking them both up after work in the morning. As it is suppose to be warmer tomorrow also I got a clear fuel filter that I will be putting on the car.
So to the first question is it ok if I unhook the fuel return line? I do belive that is what the 3rd hose that heads back to the fuel tank on the stock filter is. Will post the results of my vacum test tommorow.
So to the first question is it ok if I unhook the fuel return line? I do belive that is what the 3rd hose that heads back to the fuel tank on the stock filter is. Will post the results of my vacum test tommorow.
I believe the third line was to combat vapor lock. You can always hook it back up if it causes issues this summer, just make sure and plug it for now. Curious, have you checked for fuel in the carb right after it stalls? Just like what you did to check accelerator pump, you know? I think it's a starvation issue.
Last edited by Mr.4spd; Jan 9, 2014 at 05:49 PM. Reason: I lift things up, and I put them down.
I believe the third line was to combat vapor lock. You can always hook it back up if it causes issues this summer, just make sure and plug it for now. Curious, have you checked for fuel in the carb right after it stalls? Just like what you did to check accelerator pump, you know? I think it's a starvation issue.
Ok so I just got back inside took some pictures of the vacum gauge. If I know how to read timing right at idle I am at 10 degrees btdc at idle.
This is where it was at once it warmed up

This is were it was at after about 5 more minutes.

Is my oil pressure to low? If so how do I fix it? I have 5w 20 In it I belive?

This is a short less then a minute video. If you could listen to my engine and tell me if how it sounds to you once you get pas the squeek I stoped trying to find.
This is where it was at once it warmed up

This is were it was at after about 5 more minutes.

Is my oil pressure to low? If so how do I fix it? I have 5w 20 In it I belive?

This is a short less then a minute video. If you could listen to my engine and tell me if how it sounds to you once you get pas the squeek I stoped trying to find.
Vacuum is file...
Oil With 95,000 + miles you need a heaver engine oil. Moe like a 15W40 or just a straight 40W, (Depending on your location And Climate). That will help the oil pressure a little from all the wear in the engine.
Engine need a good pressure washing...
That A.I.R. Check valve sounds like it leaking and need replacing?
Sounds Good so far .....
Oil With 95,000 + miles you need a heaver engine oil. Moe like a 15W40 or just a straight 40W, (Depending on your location And Climate). That will help the oil pressure a little from all the wear in the engine.
Engine need a good pressure washing...

That A.I.R. Check valve sounds like it leaking and need replacing?
Sounds Good so far .....
It only has 92xxx ill go see how much the air check valve is. I live in kansas it sub zero in the winter and 90 plus in the summer. Ill see about some heavyer weight oil I just got a manual oil pressure gauge today and got it all hooked up just need to hook it to the block. Alomg with a temp and volt gauge and replaced my leaky water pump gasket. I guess I am almost done sinking money into my truck untill I figure out why it stalls.
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Jun 20, 2012 06:13 AM



