I have a 360, bored .060 over, eagle rods Keith Black pistons magnum heads, new everything. I had a Mopar purple cam in it originally, and the timing ran way advance- around 30 initial and 50 or so total. I tried everything, re curved the distributor and all, still wanted all the timing. That camshaft wiped out after around 800 miles and I too it all apart to clean and put it back together this time with a comp cams XE268. It STILL wants all that timing. I'll probably just ignore it and give it what it wants, but why would it be doing this? Comp timing set installed at the o mark, crank keyway on the domed slot. Could the timing set cause it to want the timing? The damper is a Summit one, very good quality, and it lined up with 0 at TDC, I made sure to double check the second time putting it together so I don't think that's a problem at all.

 

What the Part number on the timing set you used, so I can look at it?...

 

balancer- https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-163318
timing set- https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-2103
cam- https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-cl20-223-3

 

ARE you checking it at full advance with vacuum or just the dist advance 50 degrees with the vacuum advance is in the ball park !!!

 

Vacuum advance capped off, initial timing at 800-1000 rpm and total at 2000-2500 rpm. It has one light spring and one medium spring on the weights.

 

I would re check the timing marks against TDC If you are having to setting it at 30 initial something is wrong.. I had a 360 with a 284/ 484 purple cam 12-14 initial was fine.

 

I'll work on it here soon but it absolutely won't idle below 28 degrees.

 

Only thing I can think of is the advance/retard on the timing gear itself. How does the work? Would that make sense at all?

 

I Would install it O-Cam and O-Crank... I'm Guessing you used the ^-Diamond and have the cam advanced and the engine is not liking it...
I have seen some of these stamped wrong or what you might call defective casted.... Just my 2 cents...
But I would install it as stated above....

Keep up posted....

 

I'm 98% sure I installed it on the o slot. The one to the right of it with the domed groove
You can barely see the stampings on this picture but it's the best I could find

 

I think I would match it up with the old one or pick up a Cloyes set and see if that might fix the issue.
That cam is a "hush puppy" you should not be having this kind of an issue
Unless we have a problem somewhere else in the motor? Like an intake vacuum leak of something.

 

c -

I'm thinking along the same lines as Bob, but don't forget the stupid stuff.
Is your timing marker in the right place and if you have an adjustable timing light, is it zeroed correctly?

You timing may be fine, but your readings off.
It's happened.

Archer

 

I'm thinking dampner has spun so timming marks are off. You need to veryfiey top dead center ..............

 

It's a new dampner and it's done it since I put it on, and it does show 0 at TDC. And get another timing light and check that

 

I put my timing light on my Toyota this morning and it's working correctly on that, so a bad timing light isn't the problem

 

I tried checking the dampner with a homemade piston stop and it seems to be fine. However, I began messing with the idle mixture screws and it seemed to run better at lower timing. Soooo, could my carb be a factor in any way?

It's a Holley 600cfm I bought off Craigslist. Vacuum secondaries

 

First off most used Holley's are junk !! So it could be carb problem?

 

I had it on another motor before and never had a problem. Guy sold it cheap because he could never get it to work right. He put on a wrong gasket and gas would dump in the motor through the power valve chamber. Even had the right gasket in the rebuild kit gave gave me with the carb.

 

LOL... So much for new everything !!!!!!!

 

UPDATE: I messed with the carb enough to where it idled when the timing was turn back to where it should be. Guess the carb ended up being the problem after all. Thanks for all the help!