[update] Don't use the orings I mentioned using on the retainer cap, Their cross section is too big and will cause excess wheel bearing play due to inadequate preload. [/update]
keywords: fulltime early Spicer 44F-BJ Axle np203

Its been awhile since I've posted on here.

About 7 months ago I replaced the brake rotors on my truck Which mean your doing a wheel bearing job as well. The original plan at the time was to use the on car brake lathe but, it turned out the rotors where already too thin. Since I hadn't planned on replacing the rotors, I didn't read up on how to do that job. With the help of a friend we got it done but, we did it the hard/wrong way.

Not having access to a 12 point socket set I pulled the rotor hubs off (using a puller) without removing the bolts for the retainer cap. This will pull the seal out of the retainer cap and leave the inner most bearing behind in the knuckle. Not a big deal if your doing a bearing job anyway.

What was tough was how we reassembled the thing. We put new bearings in the knuckle, installed the retainer cap and then beat the hub back into the bearings with a hammer... that was the hard part.

This summer I rebuilt the front end on my other truck. This time I came more prepared.

I'd like to share my experience on this second attempt. This is not a complete how to guide and I'm mainly recalling from memory so not every possible step is listed.

I found a Chrysler Master Tech video for ramcharger/trail duster which shows how to tackle this job. However, it shows the use of special dealership tools, so I had to make due with a press, bearing splitter and some pipe fittings.


MTSC - 1974, Volume 74-12 Chassis and Drive-Line Highlights: Trail Duster and Ramcharger

If you don't want to see the whole video skip to 6:34


Here is what I did (from memory).

• I took the wheels off
• I soaked the 12 point bolts with penetrating oil a few days in advance.
• Used a 12 point 3/8” socket and managed to remove the bolts without rounding or breaking them
• Removed the axle nut (I believe it takes a 1 11/16 socket, but don't quote me)
• I was able to pull both rotor hubs by hand.
• I used a puller on the first bearing and race ( unfortunately I didn't take pictures) But, the puller I used looked like this (Picture 1). Be careful as it can scratch the hub. It took a few attempts, repositioning the jaws on the bearing as the cage was being destroyed. Hitting the top of the puller with a hammer to relieve tension and then re-tightening.
• (Picture 2) To free the hubs from the rotors I pressed out the studs (8 in my case). I then raised the rotor so the hub could hang. At this point I recommend you remove the grease zerk from the retainer caps to prevent them from being damaged (I bent one of mine, luckily I was able to fix it).
• I made sure the remaining bearing on the hub was aligned with the seal in the retainer cap. And then pressed on the end of the hub with a socket, pushing the bearing through the cap pulling the seal out with it.
• With the hub free from the rotor I used a bearing splitter to press off the last bearing. (unfortunately no pictures)
• (Picture 3) Alright so, I place the new rotor on to the hub, but I don't installed the studs yet. I installed a new seal in the retainer cap, reinstalled the cap grease zerk and place it onto the hub. I took my new bearing set and using a pipe coupler fitting I press them onto the hub. This step is what made the whole job easier this time around. Because then you just the slide the assemble back into the knuckle and tighten the cap bolts.

Not going to lie I loved watching that press effortlessly install those bearings. Hydraulics are awesome.

• Once the bearings are fully bottomed on the hub turn them by hand to make sure they spin. If they're stiff turning them should free them up as they should self-center.
• I reinstalled the studs
• Slid the hubs back into knuckles and tightened the cap bolts and rechecked them three times.

I had trouble getting the retainer caps sealed with rtv since I wasn't leaving them over to night to cure before greasing up the bearings. So, I went to my local Westlake Ace Hardware to get proper o-rings.


I got two sizes [update] Don't do it. They will cause loose wheel bearings [/update]


No. OR-WFC
3-3/4 in I.D.
4 in. O.D.
1/8. Wall


No. OR-WFD
3-7/8 in. I.D.
4-1/8 in. O.D.
1/8 in. Wall


I'm pretty sure I used the first one.

• I then greased the bearings until grease came out the back seal.

I think thats its for this portion. Hopefully someone will found this helpful someday.

I'll post more regarding the steering ujoints and inner wheel seals later.

 

Alright the inner wheel seal

I used pipe fittings I had laying around to try to mimic the special driver shown in the video above. The only problem is that it didn't drive the seals back far enough.

When I started tightening the retainer cap bolts during reassembly the hub would bind and not spin freely, so I hit it with a hammer and it loosened up, I repeated this until I had to the bolts torqued to spec.

I didn't realized it at the time but I was pushing the inner seal back to where it needed to be.

So, if I had to do it again I would have used a punch and hammer to work the seal back further.

 

Alright the ujoints

This what my first time doing ujoints and I was told these kind would be a pain.
I had a friend show me how which they had me use this awesome tool. edit: It's called a tiger tool.

I still had to use a brass drift and hammer, so I couldn't imagine what it would have been like without it.

As you can see in the picture the caps of the new u-joints protruded out. This presented a problem when I tried to slide the axles back into their tubes as the caps wouldn't clear the steering knuckle bores. I ended up having to grind the caps down. I'm not sure if this was avoidable or just the nature of old vehicles and after market parts...

Anyway, I've noticed no ill effects.

 

Alright, during all this I decided to do some sheet metal repair on my brake shields as they where rusty and the lower tab had rusted through on both sides of the truck.

I sandblasted them, cut out a "patch", welded and rattle paint.

 

Nice... I remember this deal.... Thanks For the update... These are not so easy to do unless you have all the rite tools...