Brake Help...
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Mopar Fan
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 28
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Brake Help...
78 Power Wagon W200 Crew
I've replaced the master Cylinder, the wheel cylinders (rear) and all the soft lines (front) new vacuum hose of carb to booster, with new fitting and grommet. The pedal is still soft...whats next? Booster?
I've replaced the master Cylinder, the wheel cylinders (rear) and all the soft lines (front) new vacuum hose of carb to booster, with new fitting and grommet. The pedal is still soft...whats next? Booster?
Mopar Lover
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,424
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If you have a soft pedal, here are the causes...........
air in the system.............air in the system.............air in the system.
brake shoe adjustment (rear)
If the rear drums are excessively worn, this makes the shoes fit poorly in the drums, a small circle inside a large circle so to speak, and that can affect pedal.
air in the system.........................................
air in the system.............air in the system.............air in the system.
brake shoe adjustment (rear)
If the rear drums are excessively worn, this makes the shoes fit poorly in the drums, a small circle inside a large circle so to speak, and that can affect pedal.
air in the system.........................................
Thread Starter
Mopar Fan
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 28
Likes: 1
If you have a soft pedal, here are the causes...........
air in the system.............air in the system.............air in the system.
brake shoe adjustment (rear)
If the rear drums are excessively worn, this makes the shoes fit poorly in the drums, a small circle inside a large circle so to speak, and that can affect pedal.
air in the system.........................................
air in the system.............air in the system.............air in the system.
brake shoe adjustment (rear)
If the rear drums are excessively worn, this makes the shoes fit poorly in the drums, a small circle inside a large circle so to speak, and that can affect pedal.
air in the system.........................................
ALL NEW WHEEL CYLINDERS AND SHOES UN THE REAR...NEW PADS AND TURNED ROTORS UP FRONT...opps sorry for the caps...
Pedal will get semi hard at the very bottom of its stroke...
Maybe I should replace ALL the hard lines...maybe I'm sucking air somewhere...but I'm NOT leaking fluid so that rules that out...right?
Can the proportioning valve do this? Or should I pop for a new booster? Booster diaphram bad?
Thread Starter
Mopar Fan
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 28
Likes: 1
I'll check'em but I'm 95% sure they are adjusted right, I'm old school...I still have a timing light and all my own brake tools...daddy taught me right...HOW could that give me a soft pedal?
Mopar Lover
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,424
Likes: 248
When you adjust drums, take your time and learn how to tighten and release the adjusters.........automatic adjusters, which work like a one--way ratchet, often require a little "fiddling" if you are not used to 'em. Heck, I myself haven't played with adjusters for at least 5 years.
With the wheels off the ground and in neutral, adjust the brakes up tight until you cannot turn the tire. This sort of "seats" the shoes. Then back off each side the same amount until the shoes just drag a bit when tire is rotated.
Because of your problem, you might adjust them up tight and BEFORE backing them back down, try the pedal and see if it "came up." From your last description...........hard pedal near end of travel, this just might be.
I'm assuming, here, that at time of last bleed, you got expected amount of fluid out of cylinders / calipers
You DO have the calipers / cylinders mounted on correct sides with bleeders UP?
You DID close the bleeders at each pedal stroke so as to prevent air coming back into system?
With the wheels off the ground and in neutral, adjust the brakes up tight until you cannot turn the tire. This sort of "seats" the shoes. Then back off each side the same amount until the shoes just drag a bit when tire is rotated.
Because of your problem, you might adjust them up tight and BEFORE backing them back down, try the pedal and see if it "came up." From your last description...........hard pedal near end of travel, this just might be.
I'm assuming, here, that at time of last bleed, you got expected amount of fluid out of cylinders / calipers
You DO have the calipers / cylinders mounted on correct sides with bleeders UP?
You DID close the bleeders at each pedal stroke so as to prevent air coming back into system?
Mopar Lover
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 11,071
Likes: 953
From: Monrovia SO-CAL (USA)
When I do Shoe Adjustments on my stuff.....
I just tighten the adjuster till the brakes are tight and then back them off 8 to 10 brake spoon turns on both sides...
Also I would take the master back off and bench bleed it ...
Just my 2 cents....
I just tighten the adjuster till the brakes are tight and then back them off 8 to 10 brake spoon turns on both sides...
Also I would take the master back off and bench bleed it ...
Just my 2 cents....
Thread Starter
Mopar Fan
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 28
Likes: 1
When you adjust drums, take your time and learn how to tighten and release the adjusters.........automatic adjusters, which work like a one--way ratchet, often require a little "fiddling" if you are not used to 'em. Heck, I myself haven't played with adjusters for at least 5 years.
With the wheels off the ground and in neutral, adjust the brakes up tight until you cannot turn the tire. This sort of "seats" the shoes. Then back off each side the same amount until the shoes just drag a bit when tire is rotated.
Because of your problem, you might adjust them up tight and BEFORE backing them back down, try the pedal and see if it "came up." From your last description...........hard pedal near end of travel, this just might be. THAT REALLY MAKES SENSE NOW...
I'm assuming, here, that at time of last bleed, you got expected amount of fluid out of cylinders / calipers YES...bleeding was done right...
You DO have the calipers / cylinders mounted on correct sides with bleeders UP? Double checked and YES...
You DID close the bleeders at each pedal stroke so as to prevent air coming back into system? Yes...bleeding was done right...I used it as a teaching moment to teach my son and SIL how to do it...
With the wheels off the ground and in neutral, adjust the brakes up tight until you cannot turn the tire. This sort of "seats" the shoes. Then back off each side the same amount until the shoes just drag a bit when tire is rotated.
Because of your problem, you might adjust them up tight and BEFORE backing them back down, try the pedal and see if it "came up." From your last description...........hard pedal near end of travel, this just might be. THAT REALLY MAKES SENSE NOW...
I'm assuming, here, that at time of last bleed, you got expected amount of fluid out of cylinders / calipers YES...bleeding was done right...
You DO have the calipers / cylinders mounted on correct sides with bleeders UP? Double checked and YES...
You DID close the bleeders at each pedal stroke so as to prevent air coming back into system? Yes...bleeding was done right...I used it as a teaching moment to teach my son and SIL how to do it...
Mine in RED above...and thanks...I'm off to Gulf Coast tomorrow to see parents...will try this when I get back...THANKS
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fastbackford351
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Jan 13, 2012 06:29 PM
